Tuesday 6^th

Eriskay and Barra

The causeway to Eriskay seems long and built on stone. We climbed up after that, the sea glistening turquoise. Peat is left behind and everywhere is rocky, grassy and flowered. About a mile from the causeway, there is a little shop run as an enterprise by the youth from the school. The bus stop here has a readable timetable, others previously had been sun-bleached or weather worn too much to decipher. I was quite shocked to see the bus only took an hour to reach Benbecula.

People were swimming in the sea and playing on the white sand beach as we rode the last mile to the ferry. There is no where to purchase a ticket but a little wooden hut provides toilets, showers and somewhere to sit and wait. This is closed till not long before the ferry is due however.

A few cars have collected on the quay and we stood watching the ferry arrive. We paid on the boat. Seating only runs down one side, but it was comfortable enough for the 40 minute trip (costing us £6.10) across to Barra. It was a bit blowy to go up top and despite it being run by electricity it is noisier than the other boats like it. It only took 30 minutes- maybe that’s why it was noisy. I was quite glad to get off as the sea had more movement than we have got used to.

 We were riding another 9 miles to Castlebay on Barra where we would be staying at Craigard Hotel. It was a pretty route following a tree lined-albeit small trees- river course. We came to the island’s reservoir with water spilling over the overflow. We are on a circular route that goes round Barra and the views are spectacular. The colour of the sea is constantly changing and the sands are fine and white.

Castlebay has a few shops, a post office, tourist office, schools. 2hotels, a bank and a cottage hospital. Medieval fortress – Kisimul Castle sits in the bay below the town on a rocky outcrop and we have a good view of this from the hotel dining room. We had the crispiest skin on chips ever with our fish and one of the best sleeps this trip.

Wednesday

 

When we come down to breakfast we realise how small the hotel is as the breakfast room is intimate with few tables. We enjoyed what we ordered and left for the 9.30 boat to the castle. It only takes minutes to get there but we were taken around the outcrop against the tide coming back which took much longer. It cost £3.60 for concessions with Historic Scotland and we paid at the castle.

 There are steps from the boat, then it’s through an archway into a court-yard, which, a photocopied, guided tour tells us, is not original and most of the buildings were rebuilt in the last century- many stones being taken over time to build houses on Barra. The enclosed walls greened over in places are impressive however and the smell of damp with small stalagtites here and there, adds to the atmosphere.

 The least restored building within is the 3- storey tower house, probably dating from the 15^th century. I thought the toilet looked like it is used (maybe by the historic Scotland staff) and rooms looked like they sometimes have guests staying. That would be exciting at night. There is a pit prison and a timber roofed mortuary chapel now used as a family burial place to spook one further. In the feasting hall there are muskets fitted with bayonets and some short pikes recovered from the Battle of Culloden.

 The Macneil clan feature strongly in the castle’s history since around the 11^th century but remains found in 2001 show Kisimuls’s history began 4,000 years ago. There are pictures of several Macneil ancestors. We looked closely for a resemblance to an acquaintance descended from the Macneil- line but we couldn’t see one.

After the castle we collected our tickets from the ferry office as we need to be ready to board the boat at 7. 20 am for the 4- hour boat trip to Oban. At £14 each this seems very good value.

We rode steeply up towards Vatersay, stopping at the modern war memorial in white stone and slate on a high point before going down the hill to the causeway, completed in 1990 and surrounded today by piles of lobster pots. Some were being loaded onto a small boat. We’ve ridden here before and decided against going around Vatersay today. We have completed our 100 islands already! We needed to complete the circuit of Barra however and as we walked back up some of the hill we stupidly came down, the heavens decided to open over us yet again. The sea was inky black. We put our capes on, but it was such a sudden storm that we were soaked and cold.

We soon dried off as the sun came out on route to the airport. The shiny blue tiny plane was sitting on the sand. The passengers had embarked, the pilot got in the cockpit and the chocks were taken away. A red airport van moved in front of one of the engines and then those propellers started up. Then when the other side started spinning, the plane did a turn to face down the sand, beside the sea. The red van drove off in the same direction but further down, to park just at the bottom of the dunes. The plane turned and faced us again setting off at speed to lift as it passed the red van, flying not far over our heads. ( We waved but I don’t suppose the American’s we’d seen at breakfast and were flying to Glasgow, saw us.) It did a loop and then flew over the sea.

The airport waiting room, checking -in and security are all in the café. We had lunch here- probably our 4^th cauliflower soup- this time with coconut and cumin. They have all been pleasant enough and all different.

We walked through the dunes on the opposite side of the road to the surfing beach. On the way we passed families carrying surfing boards. No sandcastles on this beach and few shells- just the roar of the waves and the beautiful colour of the sea in sun.

Completing our circuit( approximately 10 mile) we went back by the road to the ferry to Eriskay. We’d met more American tourists on bikes near Vatersay and knew they would be going for the ferry arriving soon. We saw them cycle right past the turning so we chased them and said they’d miss the ferry that way. We had thought the sign misleading when we arrived.

We admired huge fuchsia bushes, rose and everywhere, orange crocosmia. There were long steep hills and we seemed to walk a fair bit today.

After eating at our hotel’s restaurant we went to the Kisimul Café where there is a curry night with live music. We were allowed to sit with a coffee till the 2^nd sitting, when at 7.45 we would have to leave, even though we had already eaten. If we had realised there was other than curry on the menu we would have come here for dinner. The first half had an exceptional violinist ( then later the lady following her played 2 recorders at the same time, sang and played a little Gaelic harp. I suppose people had booked tables but there weren’t many customers when we were there. We had to leave but we found her on U tube when we arrived home and thought she was less traditional than the violinist but good.

After an early continental breakfast we left for the ferry. It had been a very relaxed stay.

The ferry left, noisily, on the dot of 7.50 only to go quiet suddenly as we passed between buoys into the open sea. Surely this boat isn’t electric too. No it’s not! It was only quiet at the front and it juddered everywhere else.

There were several sightings of dolphins, but I was always looking in the wrong direction. Then I spotted several fins but Bob and others saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins leaping. Eventually I saw some common dolphins out of the water at last. They seemed small and looked black against the cloudy sky.

The sea sparkled ahead of us most of the way, despite cloud cover. It was a sociable crossing, chatting with cyclists from Mull- the wildlife spotters. A lifeboat was going out to sea and they thought it would be going to Mull to fetch someone who needs medical attention. The lady was speaking from experience!

 We arrived in Oban 4 ½ hours from Barra, after sitting outside the harbour waiting for another ferry to leave for at least 10 minutes. We have come back to sun and have some lunch at Oban’s Wetherspoon, sitting in it.

The only train for Glasgow that gave us connections was around 2pm. We mooched around for a bit then dismantled the bike so we each carried a wheel. As we approached the platform 2 railway workers said that we had a tandem- despite it being in 2 parts and tandems are not allowed on the train. We explained that we had booked 2 bike places, but they were adamant we shouldn’t have booked it on at all. I was getting upset as it had been a hard ride in all and we wondered how we would get home. I said that what they were saying seemed rather jobs worth. That was probably the worst thing to say to such people. Humiliated I went off. Bob had wisely said nothing but while I nursed my ego he quietly put the first bike bit on, hanging it on the bike hooks. I saw him doing it and thought we’d been given the go ahead so I brought the other bike part to him. Up rushed the lady clerk from the station telling us we’d have to take it off. Amused passengers watch our predicament from their seats. The train driver arrived and the lady guard. Seeing both wheels hanging, smaller than 2 individual bikes, they said they could see no reason why we couldn’t keep the bikes on the train. What a stressful 15 minutes! We vowed we wouldn’t take the tandem by train again but then 3 hours later in Glasgow they couldn’t have been nicer.

The journey went without a hitch and we arrived safely at Manchester Airport, yet another 3 hours later, to ride the last 7 miles home.

We have cycled or walked around as much as possible, the islands of-

Hilbre

Ynys Llandwyn

Church island

St Michaels Mount

St Mary’s

Tresco

Gugh

St Agnes

St Martins

Bryer

Walney

Inchcolm

Crammond

Inner Farne

Mull

Iona

Staffa

Erraid

Ulva

Lismore

Arran

Holy island off Arran

2 Tree island

Brownsea

Isle of wight

Fiddler’s island (oxford)

South stack

St Cwyfans

Threave Island

Inch and St Mary’s Isle Kirkcudbright

Piel

Hulses

Islands of Prague

Guernsey

Sark

Herm

Jersey

Elizabeth’s castle

Great Cumbrae

Isle of Bute

St Mary’s Northumberland

Lindisfarne

Isle of Man

St Michaels IOM

St Patrick Isle IOM

Brac Croatia

Solta Croatia

Hvar Croatia

Trogir Croatia

Seil

Luing

Easdale

Karrera

Colonsay

Oronsay

Ynes Gifton

Bardsey

Worms head

Burrow holm

Alney ( Gloucester)

Barry

Sully

Sheep

Foulney

Ramsey

Skomer

Cei Balast

S Ronaldsway Orkney

Burray

Glimpshgolm

Lambholm

Shapinsay

Sanday

Rousay   

Mainland Orkney

Lundy

Burgh

Mersea Essex

Northey

Wallasea

Inchmahone

Inchailioch

Gigha

Dvaar

Tiree

Coll

Lochleven castle island

Isle of May

Ardwall

Skye

Raasay

Harris

Scalpay

Lewis

Berneray

N. Uist

Benbecula

S. Uist

Eriskay

Barra

 

Thank you for your interest in our 5 year challenge. Hope you are inspired to visit some of the lesser known islands- those with causeways especially. People ask which were our favourites and I can honestly say that most have something to offer but so much is dependant on good weather. When pressed I would have to say the Scilly Isles for beauty, clear seas and ease of travelling though weather dependant. We've heard horror stories of the flat bottomed boat - how every one gets sea sick. in moderately bad weather. Farne was for the best for birds- fantastic!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday 5^th

North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist

The causeway is not far from the village of Borve where we stayed on Berneray. Opened in 1999 by Prince Charles who had a special affinity with the people here, it spans across the sea to North Uist for 0.9km. We liked the way natural stone blocks have been used- not concrete and it sits well in the landscape. Care has been made to provide culverts for otters and efforts were made to discourage rabbits from crossing to Berneray as the islanders feared a plague of them would upset the local ecology. Some rabbits have been spotted though we didn’t see any signs.

On North Uist we passed little lochs, salmon farms and a forest with a deer sign. Pink, mauve, purple, white heathers were everywhere. A short- eared owl was out hunting in one of the dry spells. N. uist is so low lying that half the total area is under water.

It rained hard and we wore capes which we struggled to keep down over us as the wind whipped them up. They were on and off a few times.

After 20 miles we came to a hotel at Carinish right by the road instead of a mile or two down a side road. It was quiet and the girl behind the bar came from Bolton- not so far from us. We had plenty for lunch as we’d found the ride exhausting and then set off towards the series of causeways to Benbecula.

 The tide was rushing in. The first causeway touches Grimsay on its way to Benbecula. There are 3 bridges along the single- track road that sits on top of the causeway for 5 miles, Carinish to Gramisdale.2 bridges allow for boats to reach the main channels and 1 is for drainage. Each mile of causeway road has 9 passing places to each mile. In 1960 the Queen Mother opened this replacement for the North Ford, which was a dangerous route only passable for a short window and beside quick sand.

Part of Benbecula seems to be given over to the Ministry of Defence, which deceptively made the airport look enormous. Starlings gathered on the rooves and chimneys making minor murmurations. On the mown grassy areas plenty of birds pecked away- they seem attracted to airports we’ve noticed.

This is the largest place that we have seen in the Hebrides- apart from Portree, that could be a small town. Ballvanich must have grown of it must have grown with the MOD presence, especially the many terraced houses seemingly made from concrete. In a lovely craft shop we were told there is a restaurant beside the bank- both were set back from the road and if we hadn’t been informed we would have gone by. At 3pm plenty of people were eating but we settled for a comfort stop and tea. We are about 28 miles from the last B and B. Lots of motorists have passed us waving vigorously and giving us the thumbs up but we have seen 2 other tandems today- going north like every- one else!

 We took the longer coast road passing a supermarket not dissimilar to Waitrose that is open till 4 on   Sunday. We passed a closed visitors- centre and a large school with a sports complex attached. The rain is coming now fast and sharp and we are very wet. It has been over 35 miles. We found the B and B, a deserted bungalow. We didn’t think 4 an unreasonable time to arrive. I asked Bob to see if we had a message on his phone. She had left one saying she would be back after 5.

We decided to go to the Isle of Benbecula House Hotel where I had booked us a table for the evening. At least we’d be warm and dry. There was hardly anyone in the dining room so they didn’t mind giving us our roast lamb early.

The house still looked a bit friendless with a rotten wooden B and B sign laying in the porch. We weren’t that confident this would turn out OK. The lady came eventually but seemed a bit confused. It turned out that she is on the point of retiring. Anyway she’d had no more than a few words with us and she was out again after saying we could sit in the TV room ( the bedroom was small) Comfy chairs and I was nearly asleep but when we went to bed and our host still hadn’t come back I couldn’t sleep. A long time later I heard a cough and realised she was back. The wind and rain pelted against the windows- it was wild!

Monday

Our clothes were dry by morning. We couldn’t smell breakfast which when it came- possibly cooked in a microwave- was very poor compared to all that given by the generous hosts we’d encountered so far. It was an expensive stay too at £80!

We were back in our cycle capes not long after setting off at 9 and out trousers were wet through again. We passed sand dunes. Bob decided to sit on a tarpaulin in front of a farm gate. I was just totally defeated by the weather but felt better after a rock cake bought on Harris ( they had  kept well)

Then the farmer arrived with a tractor and we had to move on. Sometime after 10 we noticed we were making a shadow on the road and people were cycling towards us in T shirts and shorts. Work is going on to boost electricity here, putting up new posts and reinforcing the power line. We can hear the rhythmical driving in of the posts on the hill. It has been hillier in south than north Uist.

15 miles into the day we came across the first place with a café a museum and craft shop. This place is busy compared to most we’ve been to. A group of cyclists have been brought here by van and they are off on hired bikes with their guide. Meals are served from 12 and we enjoyed our jacket potatoes and for a pound extra, a huge plate of flaked smoked salmon- too much though.

I particularly liked the medieval carved Clanranald Armorial Stone in this, the Kildonan Centre. It depicted a hand with a cross or sceptre, a bird, horse, castle and boat. It was the story that intrigued me of how it was stolen by 2 young men and only after the untimely death of her son did the mother discover it with photos of how they accomplished the theft, while clearing out his flat. It is large and heavy and now thought to be cursed. I could have spent a lot longer looking at the interesting exhibits of life on Uist, but the sun was shining so we pressed on.

Another 8 miles brought us to a café at Kilbride Campsite. Beside this is a high walled garden of historical note from Bonnie Prince Charlie’s time. Just inside the walls is a craft shop. The family grow produce for the household needs and spin, dye, knit, crotchet, weave and felt with the wool (mostly black) from their own Hebridean sheep.

At last the sun is really out as we go through W. Kilbride and we can see the causeway to Eriskay ahead.

Saturday 4^th August

South Harris and Berneray

At breakfast we met 2 French guests. He had very good English and wore a space Agency t shirt. He told us they’d booked a hotel in Tarbert by Booking .com and discovered too late that it was for Tarbert in Ayrshire. Luckily there was a vacancy here as we haven’t seen many other B and Bs apart from the 2 hotels. We hope their holiday had no more mishaps as their easy jet flight had been cancelled too, further changing their plans.

We left just after 9. Arlene had given us an enormous breakfast. She has been horrified by how little cyclists eat before setting off for a long ride and told us to take some energy bars with us. We took it steady and walked up the hill out of Tarbert heading south for Leverburgh, through rocky terrain with views out to Scalpay bridge. The winds were slightly against us and it was hard up and even down we couldn’t build up momentum, though it did get better. Surprisingly we encountered a lot of people cycling- the other way! A young couple came by on a tandem, hair flying, no saddle bags, whooping and waving as they flew down the hill.

Later we were passed by 2 young chaps we’d met on the ferry. Surely they hadn’t been to Barra and back again!

There was nothing except signposts for walks and the odd road off the main one. Sometimes art and craft ware was advertised at someone’s house gate. A few camping pods, one tent and then piles of covered peat sprinkled the landscape. We passed some attractive croft like houses for 5 star self -catering, some built into the land with grass rooves. These looked out onto the extensive sands of South Harris.

The sea was teal coloured against the pale, yellow, almost white sometimes, sands. A coach passed us, passengers waving. Then they too stopped like us to take a picture of the clear water where you could see the colour of the seaweed beneath.

Just a bit further on we stopped at a camp site served by a mobile snack van and bought hot drinks. The toilets looked like a long trek across the fields, so we didn’t drink too much! This was the only place in at least 10 miles. We were slowed down by having to pull over for cars on the single- track sections. Sheep lazed by the verge.

There was a sign for a café near the Seallam visitors centre but it was a mile away and then might not be open. The visitors centre was closed- on a Saturday! We’d still hills to climb and wind to endure-I don’t know how Bob can control the bike when it gusts hard from the side.

We saw many fungi flat mushrooms and round yellow ones while yellow was the predominant wild flower colour. There were a few houses at Scarista but Leverburgh the next largest village to Tarbert has more. There was a large shop and café just coming in but no others until The Anchorage right at the ferry. This is decorated in a blue and white nautical theme and run by friendly Hungarians and Czechs. A minke whale spine hangs from the ceiling. While we sheltered and waited for the ferry to Berneray, we saw several plates of lobster delivered to tables. We would eat tonight so we had soup and  roll, but they ran out of shellfish anyway.

The ferry ride- £7.20 for both of us- was a hour and it slalomed across the Minch marked by red and green beacons. The passengers all sat upstairs and tickets were bought on board.

Berneray hada lovely feel to it. As we rode out of the ferry “port” there was a sign warning us of otters crossing. There’s a bunkhouse and a youth hostel but the bunkhouse was obviously full as later- on after finding our B and B, we met a fellow passenger weighed down with rucksack struggling in the wind and rain, walking to the hostel, 1 1/2 miles away. It’s always best to book ahead!

“Brightwater” has lovely views to sea and Harris. It’s called so because of the clear sparkling water washing over the fool’s gold on the sea bed, said our hostess.

We walked up the village past the PO and visited a tiny gift shop, open till 5, buying a herbal shampoo bar made on Lewis.( so long as it’s Hebridean) We passed the nurses cottage which is now a museum of the area and to the seal view where we watched several seals on the orange seaweed covered rocks.

Back at the house we were given a lovely meal while watching the sea from a picture window. A hooded crow was throwing a mollusc up in the air and then diving down to eat it, though we weren’t sure if it was finding that one hard to crack or if he had a store he was going through. Apparently otters frequently walk across the bottom of the garden, verging on the sea’s edge.

I was quite embarrassed by how much we ate. They were the best new potatoes ever tasted and there was a mountain - with green beans, ratatouie and fresh salmon ( twice the size of what we would normally eat.)  Bob had a huge plate of strawberries and cream and I had the runniest ripe brie. We’d booked dinner as we didn’t see anywhere to go using the net, but actually coming from the ferry there was a little shop- well stocked and attached a small bistro. We still did better at the house by all accounts though!

Sunday 5^th

We had porridge and cooked breakfast. Jackie, our hostess seems to be owner and cook- a lovely lady from Kent, she came for a holiday and promptly went home, packed up and returned for ever. She never learnt Gaelic because it was considered bad manners to speak it in front of her. She thinks Berneray is the best island in the Hebrides and I am inclined to agree with her. Seals and otters on the doorstep and a tiny island community.

We left at 9 and were soon on the causeway to North Uist

Friday 3^rd August

 Lewis

We had a lovely healthy breakfast of grapefruit, porridge, avocado and scrambled eggs for me and salmon for Bob before driving to Lewis. It does feel different to Harris but the distinction is more like a county- it not being separated by water. We headed out on the A 858 to Callanish Standing Stones and I probably drove for an hour to get there. The car certainly made it possible for us to see more of  Hebridean culture.

 We arrived at a sign saying Callanish 111 and I felt disappointed- surely these stones weren’t IT?  We parked on the road and walked through fields and then lovely wrought iron gates, depicting stick people erecting the stones with sun and moon symbols for decoration. Here are 2 stone circles.

Further down nearer the loch we could see more stones like pointing fingers. We walked down to these on a muddy but tended path. This is Callanish 11.

 Looking out across the loch on a hill we could see the largest set of stones, Callanish 1. They looked much more impressive. For this we had to walk back to the road though we didn’t need to retrace our steps as there is another path through farmland. There is a visitor centre, café and car park where we re-parked the car. Although a coach had just arrived it wasn’t too busy-yet. After a quick drink we walked round the 5,000 year old monument- older than Stonehenge or the pryramids. In an oblique cross pattern with a central circle within which remains of a cremation were set in a cairn, the tallest stone stands 15 feet high. The alignment of the stones is said to relate to the moon rather than the sun.

11 miles away just N of the village of Carloway is Gearrannan, the last remaining street of black houses on Lewis. They cluster above a pebbled beach in a sheltered cove. Inhabitants left only in 1975 ( for council housing)  and some of it is now a museum while other is used as holiday rental or hostellery after some restoration work. It is a beautiful site of thatched crofts. We were surprised how much the floor slanted towards the door- a testament to how damp the properties were as this was to drain the water. The walls were very thick. It was laid out as a Victorian family would have had it with box beds and a peat fire was burning. In the outhouse an elderly gentleman stood weaving Harris tweed. He told us that 2 people go out all day, when required, to dig out peat pieces. It’s long but not hard, he said. It’s also free except in terms of labour. On our drive we had passed several places where peat was ready, put in plastic bags in small heaps. The weaving was being done to order and the pattern of the weave was stamped in holes in card making me think of old style computers.

We walked down to the beach. The pebbles were large and very difficult to walk on. There was a short strip of granular white sand and the sea felt warm. Bob built a pebble cairn. Despite the charm of this village you could see that life here must have been very hard.

We drove on to Stornaway, parking by the shops for an hour while we looked for a quick lunch. Eventually we found a hotel doing cauliflower cheese soup with a garlicky pesto on top. Despite the stale roll the soup was delicious!

We could see Lews Castle across from the harbour where a fun-fair emitted shrieks from ride- goers. Stornaway is a well populated town of around 8,000 and it has always been a good area for fishing, particularly herring. The castle is set in grounds with many varieties of trees. The landscape so far has had few reaching any height and it is nice to see them having flourished here. Planted mostly in the 1860s by Lady Matheson whose husband’s company was in the Far East, as they die they are gradually being replaced with new saplings. There is a golf course. The gothic looking castle is used as a venue for civil weddings and we walked around the ground floor. We liked the vaulted ceiling decorated with stars. There is a café and the museum is well worth a visit. I wanted to see the Lewis Chessman of Viking origin around 12thcentury and made of whale and walrus bone. There are only 6 here (they might even be replicas), loaned by the British Museum who have 83 of the 93 known pieces. Discovered in Uig in the 1830s surely some at least should remain here. They are intricately carved and well displayed each displaying different characteristics. The fierce Beserkers are biting their shields and the queens all have a hand to the face in a gesture not yet understood. I love the details.

Bob was worried about the time as we had to get the car back to Tarbert ferry car park by 6. It was well after 3 and we needed petrol. We visited what we thought was a cairn but it was a modern memorial to crofters in 1887 who killed 200 deer as a protest to the land owner who treated her tenants poorly. They were desperate for the land. The tenants were exonerated and hailed as heros as the memorial testifies. We had a good view from the top and the weather seems to be improving.

We had to leave the keys for the car, which we enjoyed driving surprisingly, at the hotel reception and the tandem was built ready to ride back to the B and B after a tasty duck supper. Lemon drizzle cake in our room but no sign of any other occupants.

 

Wednesday 1^st August

Skye to Harris including Scalpay

After our gentle crossing from Raasay we arrived back in Sconser and set off straight away on the busy main road and only route to Portree- the “capital” of Skye. There was a lot of climbing. The ride’s highlight was a fantastic rainbow arching and touching the water of the loch, in the clearest of colours through the fine rain.

This picture doesn't do it justice.

 

Several people stopped in cars and even a coachload of tourists- just to capture it on camera. Long descents made it worth the slow climbs. Wild raspberries and many flowers, particularly more fuchsia, seemed to grow well here.

Portree was humming with tourists of every nationality and they spilled out of the eating places that were open. Two very young lads were busking, playing the bagpipes, with an adult, hopefully not exploiting them, but definitely in charge. We found a café with as many tables crammed in as possible. Bob went to park the bike where it wouldn’t cause an obstruction and I sat down. A rather rude bearded fellow plonked himself down opposite me. I told him Bob was coming but he said that that made only two of us- he was certainly invading my space! The waitress thought we were a couple when I ordered. He was very disagreeable when there wasn’t something on the menu he fancied and he left in a huff before Bob returned. Thank goodness! Pea soup and toasties later we were back on route, stopping only to buy some bike straps from a tucked away bike shop beside the Youth Hostel.

It had brightened up and we stayed dry. We had to pull the bike over quite a lot even though the road was less busy than before Portree. There wasn’t anywhere to stop until nearly in Uig – the Uig Hotel 30 miles from Sconser. We’d tried to get a room here, but they were fully booked. The meals looked good, but we only had a drink. After riding down the steep hill towards the ferry port we realised we might not want to cycle back up for an evening meal.

Uig is tiny!! Calmac has a largish office opposite the ferry and we went to find out about tickets. Bob had paid on line. The official said she was just printing tomorrows off – they were coming off in a stream piled high-so could we come back at 8 am. It had just started to rain and we were feeling cold. Our B and B lady had said she wouldn’t be in until after 5 as she worked in a charity shop. She only B and B’d occasionally and we were lucky to find somewhere. We had soon seen all there was in Uig and there weren’t any charity shops so she must be in Portree. It was dry and there were chairs in the Calmac office so we went back for somewhere to wait to find that our tickets were ready for us, but we would still have to report there in the morning, being with bikes. Bizarre! The office is open till after 7 today.

Two border collies took offense from our tandem as we went up the lane at 5 oclock. They ran at us, hackles rising, chasing us down the B and B’s drive. They brought out our host who thought we’d brought dogs with us! They soon skidaddled back to their own, once we set feet to ground. What is it about turning bike wheels? Is it the noise dogs can’t tolerate? Dog aggression is always worse when we are on the bigger bike than solos.

This turned out to be a very sociable stay as we had a lot in common and shared the house space. She tried booking us a table at the Ferry Inn, but the phone number didn’t work. She found out online that it was for sale. It looked like we’d be eating at the Pier Restaurant- the only other option.

It was actually a tasty meal, served by young waiters dressed in black- rather incongruous with the café like set up. My carrot and orange soup was lovely and Bob had his favourite cuillen skink, both followed by more fish dishes. Well it is at the sea.

Thursday morning we had an early breakfast and still unsure of the bike protocol we went back to the ticket office. A different girl from yesterday tore up our tickets and gave us back our boarding cards that we expected to leave at the desk. Then she told us to go down to the boat before the vehicles disembarked, which we did. We were first on after the boat had emptied but they didn’t want our boarding cards.

It was a large boat with comfortable seating. People were buying breakfast though it took ages for them to do self service coffee and then pay for it. The trip to Tarbert on Harris cost us £6.30 each one way and it would take 1 and half hours. We sat away from the engine at the front, where it was quiet. The sea was calm. While I fetched Bob a coffee (it took some time) he saw a pod of dolphins. I did manage to see a gannet with its yellow facial streak as it crossed over the prow of the ship and then a puffin skimming the sea’s surface but I was disappointed!

We were last off the boat at Tarbert. We had booked a car for today and tomorrow, so we rode around Tarbert looking for the car hire office. Meanwhile a man waited for us at the pedestrian exit. After a quick call we were told to look for a man with a moustache! I found him with a clip board and another passenger in tow who wanted our car if we didn’t turn up. It looked an unlikely size for the tandem to fit in, but as the man said it was bigger than our Corsa. It must have been the bright orange colour that made it look smaller. I’m sorry to say that it was a relief to stow the tandem away for a little while at least. The agent and a friendly policeman watched as we took the bike apart and carefully loaded it in, on our blue tarpaulin.

Bob parked the car and we went in search of lunch which isn’t served till the dot of 12. We settled for 2 bacon butties from a hot food van which we ate looking out at the harbour. I looked around a craft exhibition in the civic hall- harris tweed dresses and jackets, tattered rugs, glasswork- all beautiful but not practical for us as we would soon be back on our bike with no extra space for giftware. I loved the modern look of the tweed especially the greens and mauves, but even small pieces cost a lot.

We drove out on the single- track roads. We’d hired the car because we knew we hadn’t enough time to cycle Lewis and north Harris as well as the rest of the outer Hebrides. It was raining on and off but at Ardrouilie we walked near an outward- bound centre where they had planted thousands of new and varied trees for woodland. The sun shone on us and we walked at least a couple of miles appreciating the wild flowers.

We drove to Scalpay, an island now connected to Harris by bridge. We stopped near a little white building that inside became a trendy café bistro full of home cooking. We sat on leather arm chairs surrounded by harris tweed décor with a pot if tea ( and a piece of ginger cake with butter)

We walked best part of the way to the lighthouse featured in the café sign. We were picked up by a little white terrier. It would run ahead then wait for us to catch up. We travelled at least a mile this way when a car drew up suddenly. I thought the dog might be run over as it skidded to a halt. A lady got out and started both chastising and petting it. Relieved we weren’t abducting her pet she said it had followed an American couple to the lighthouse and stayed the night in their tent. It likes tourists! she said.

Scalpay has a lot of houses and cars going up and down necessitating us to go in the gutter a few times. The playground is locked up because the equipment needs replacing. We noticed 2 free churches and passed a school that seemed for art ( maybe just for the summer) one wall can be used for low climbs with plastic foot holds. The tidal water here is supposed to be otter habitat but it being late afternoon, seeing one wasn’t likely. There were plenty of fee range chickens wandering about. There was a good idea for a bird feeder- someone had cut out bits of buoys and hung them up to contain seed. Although we seemed to walk quite a way we never saw the Eilean Glas lighthouse(1789) which is on the eastern peninsula and we know we were heading the right way. The island is only 2 ½ miles square

We drove back to Tarbert and a mile out is our B and B. We leave the car after checking in and walk back to the Harris Hotel but they have a party of 50 coming. It has a beautiful walled garden but we decide to go back to the Hebridean Hotel by the ferry terminal. It was well after 6, but we got a table and enjoyed dinner with 3 different kinds of vegetables not carrots or turnips unusually. The beer was good for both of us too. Usually it’s too bitter for me.

After walking back to the B and B we reckoned we’d walked at least 6 mile despite having the car. There was chocolate cake in our room. Mmm. The walls were quite thin and as we could hear our neighbours we decided not to watch TV but sat in the lounge with views over the Loch. A young couple were trying to capture a sunset but the sun wasn’t playing!

 

Monday 30^th July 2018

Cycling the Outer Hebrides

Skye and Raasay

We left home at 6 am on the tandem, heavily laden with clothes, food and tools for 10 days. From Manchester Airport station we could train 3 hours to Glasgow where we would then go from Queen Street station to Mallaig another 4 to 5 hours. The bike went in the trains as 2 separate “unicycles” and these need to be booked on. Our booked seats were positioned quite far in another carriage from the tandem but we found some unmarked ones nearby. It does seem crazy that when you book both together that they can’t at least be in the same part of the train!

Queen Street station is having a bit of a revamp and we didn’t want to wait in the crowds there, so we found a bench and were entertained by a Rod Stewart wannabe while we ate our sandwiches.

We took the bike apart but still didn’t want to venture into the crowds and sometimes there isn’t much time after the platform number goes up till the train is actually due to leave. A railway official saw us dithering on the periphery, guided us through the gate and told us to wait by platform 2. Also he wished us a happy holiday and said he remembered us from when we did the coast ride more than 5 years earlier.

Bikes hang from hooks on Scottish trains but Bob is well practised. This train splits, with 2 carriages going to Oban while the larger portion goes on to Mallaig. The journey is really pretty with Ben Nevis at Fort William and the crescent shaped viaduct famous from Harry Potter films gives spectacular views.

Mallaig always shocks me by its size. For a ferry port and end of line station it seems too small. There aren’t even toilets on the station. The steam train was preparing to take tourists down the line. The air was thick with sulphurous smell and water vapour. People in the museum don’t seem to mind you using their toilet, though it was about to close at 5. As it happened the B and B was very close just opposite the harbour. The room was delightfully Scottish with Harris Tweed lampshades, cushions and strongly smelling lavender bag hearts.

Looking out towards Skye from our window in the morning we could see a seal bobbing up and down in the water close to the water’s edge. At breakfast we learnt that the B and B family had been feeding mackerel to a group of them and this one must have been hopeful.

The ferry office opened at 7.10 am and Bob bought our tickets to Skye and after breakfast we visited the Seamen’s Mission to buy 2^nd hand books, as many as in any book shop all sorted into categories. You paid in the café which seemed to be open all day.

It was vague contradictory verbal instructions from various ferry workers but eventually we stood waiting for the right boat- some went to Rhum and Eigg. A Belgian family waited by us and they said that the bus behind us in the queue was from their village and it was the second time they had seen them on their family trip. Today they noticed the driver (in a purple kilt!) was actually one of their neighbours. Small world!

The ferry cost us £2.90 each. We’d expected a bigger boat with a café as there used to be before the bridge connected Skye to the mainland. There was only seating down one side of the boat which was devoid even of drinks machines and it had only one toilet per sex. The engine was very quiet being, we think, electric. The crossing was smooth and seemed less than the advertised 45 minutes.

We arrived at Armadale in the Garden of Sleat region with its abundant wild flowers and various artisans selling their wares to tourists. We looked out for the disused road bob had noticed on his map which could provide a safer route than the main road but despite spotting it sometimes yards away we couldn’t see how to get on it. There were no signs to help. At ferry times the road can be busy and there are heavy lorries.

We made good speed to Broadford but by then the rain had started and the wind was gusty. We stopped at a delicatessen serving food before we got too wet and ate a toastie but we could have done with the soup advertised that hadn’t been made today. They were selling craft gifts and we liked the knitted jelly fish which cost £50!

The traffic increased after lunch and the side gusts of winds almost pushed us off the bike twice. At last we came off the main road , taking one for Mull, which gave us a very shingly, potholed single track route to Sconser. We would take the ferry to the isle of Raasay from here, where we would stay the night. We seemed to climb a lot despite it being lower than the main road and we had good views down to the Loch. We rode 2 sides of the Loch where we could see a salmon farm and a sprinkling of houses.

As it drew near to the ferry time-3pm, we spotted the boat on its way back from Raasay. We overtook it but then it looked like we would be cycling inland a bit and the boat was almost at Sconser. Pedalling hard and dripping wet we saw the ferry sign and arrived just in time. Tickets are bought on board- £3.90 return. This boat was larger than that from Mallaig but still without drinks or snacks. This ferry is a hybrid but using electricity today. Quiet and smooth it took about 15 minutes to cross.

We had trouble finding our B and B as the roads weren’t always signposted on both ends. We ended up going in a circle and asking directions from the little community shop. There is one hotel and that’s the place to eat out-a bistro or restaurant at Raasay House. After finding our B and B our host booked us a meal in the restaurant, though we weren’t sure what the difference was. It was only a 10 minute walk away and we were lent big umbrellas which kept the wind and rain off.

The next- door farm had goats and we passed the most abundantly flowering fuchsia ever and the modern, small Raasay Distillary.

Our young waiter in black was very enthusiastic about the island and he brought me a brochure with a better map than the OS one Bob had. He looked up how far it would be to the North of Raasay on the hotel’s website. At 10 miles with 1,000 metre of climb one way only and still 30 miles to go to Uig we decided unfortunately exploring the north was out of the question. This is the drawback to pre- booking accommodation though it is necessary!

We enjoyed venison casserole and soup washed down with Skye Black beer.

It was an early night. All was quiet in the house- unusually so. The hardy Scots seem to prefer firm beds and I tossed about for a bit but Bob found it comfortable. Around 10 it seemed like the room above us was used as a gym. There were heavy steps pounding in regular rhythm, which went on for some time until I put the television on loudly. We thought there was only us and the lady of the house. The noise moved then and eventually I got to sleep. At breakfast I asked what it could have been and the lady apologised saying that because we had arrived by bike which was locked away out of sight and there being no car in the guests car park, her daughter had come home and thinking the room empty she would have been dancing- Ballet?!

Breakfast was generous with proper Scottish porridge and we then cycled down to the Southern end of Raasay where there are the remains of concrete WW2 buildings and something that looked ship or submarine shaped. An old pier straddled the sea. The boat went at 9.55 so we only managed a few miles. We wished we’d booked 2 nights here so we could have explored the island properly. We had a good look at the 2 lichen covered and weather beaten mermaids on the fortification at the harbour.

Climbing the mound it sits on you can see a canon within. People on the ferry had enjoyed their stay at Raasay House. It is a beautiful island despite the rain!