14-Jun-2015 Hulses Island

This island just 0.6 miles long was created when the river Weaver was canalised to help larger boats reach salt mines in the area. It wasn’t named on the OS map we had but it is near to Monks well and Vale Royal Locks.

 

It was a drizzly sort of day and with a free afternoon we decided to walk it and see if it was worthy of island status. We parked the car just off the A556  before the turn off for Hartford and just after the blue iron bridge. There isn’t much space but enough room for about 5 cars. A lot of the area here is designated angling area and private. The one and a half mile walk down the tarmac lane towards the Lock is flanked by many different species of tree. We were really surprised to see an ash already fully out with this year’s  abundant  seeds. It was certainly a sheltered spot and there seemed to be no trees down from the storm on the 1^st June. On one side there are rhododendrons and on the other Himalayan balsam. The birds sang loudly but not enough to cut out the noise of the road or trains over the viaduct across the Weaver. It did get quieter further down the track though. A helicopter flew over but the dense trees meant we couldn’t see it. There was no one about until we reached the end of the tarmac. There are several routes marked which looked interesting but we focused on the island. We took a left through a gateway and over a black iron bridge with swallows whizzing underneath. The iron work was very open making it easy for a child to slip through. We were on the northern end of Hulses Island.

 

 

On the right is a pool with upright branches very suitable for kingfishers but we have been told people only usually see them flying overhead at this point so perhaps there aren’t many fish in here. We took a trodden down path to the left until the grass became too long. We loved the yellow flags growing along the river bank that will hopefully entice butterflies when the weather is more settled. The sun did come out which made it hot –for at least 15 minutes! After retracing our steps we walked toward the Vale Royal locks. Water cascaded down the weir cum sluice which controls the level of the water above the lock. It was built in 1791. Not far from this, just ahead is a stile which we climbed and followed the trodden down grass path left by others. The lock keeper told us that they don’t mow the grass on the land owned by the Anglers. There were countless wild grasses and we tried in vain to get a photo of a beautiful damsel fly, darker blue than I’ve seen before with a black spot on its wing, when it settled on a blade of grass.

 

 

We had to step carefully for geese poo, smelly and in large quantities covered the “path”. We later counted 16 Canadian geese on the non canal side of the island swimming in the muddy waters. The water was brown and we couldn’t see down through it. Near a little concrete marker at the side of the canal we found the bones of a fish cleanly filleted. Mink have been spotted further down the Weaver in the past and we wondered if they might do this. Birds would eat fish whole and this was once a big fish!

 

The bridge at the southern end was fenced off so we just retraced our steps. There were mallards, black headed gulls, wagtails but not the expected heron. We saw rings made by the fish. Bob was getting bitten so the midges were out. It doesn’t look like many people walk this way and dogs are not allowed on the length after the stile. Several cyclists took the towpath over the other side of the canal and further southwards, a bittern had been sited the previous year. Down at the pool there, are kingfishers but we are walking or cycling islands so we focused on our task enjoying the 3 mile walk but feeling a little cheated that the interesting wild life wasn’t in our patch.

 

 

Link to Bob's video is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC9MQSUgfok

 

 

04-Jun-2015 Piel Island

We left Scotland for home, travelling via the Lake District so we could visit Piel Island from Roa Island off Barrow-in –Furness. It was late in the afternoon 3.15 but we thought there might be a boat today. The sea was a lovely blue where it was charcoal and choppy the last time we considered going across. Several people milled around but they were mostly taking in the sun except for three people from the Council who were going over “ for 10 minutes” according to them. They came with us in the little outboard motor boat that was licensed for 12 people. The sea was calm as a mill pond and it took between 5 and 10 minutes. Both jetties were very slippery and with a few holes- stilettos beware!  We reckoned we had only 20 minutes as the boat man wanted to finish at 4 though he did say we had about an hour. We just thought he couldn’t do the maths.

 

Piel is small but with a terrace of grey houses, a pub, animal enclosures holding pigs and hens,

a castle ruin and a duck pond. It was lovely, quite a sun trap. People we met in the pub garden often took their boat by way of Piel. They had just sailed from the Isle of Man and said the last time they came they couldn’t moor the boat at the island, the storm kept them at bay for 3 days and the lady was black and blue from the rolling of the sea.

 

There was no sign of tadpoles in the pond but it was clean with some birdlife. The 14^th century castle, owned by English Heritage, is mostly just a massive keep which seemed to be barricaded up. Outer building ruins and walls were there to walk round and the grass is kept short by somebody. The walls have been repaired in places with pink sandstone.

 

Below us on the shingle beach a family were paddling and collecting shells in buckets. Most people were sitting at tables in the pub garden. At 4pm the little boat came and went with its allotted 12 people and there were still nearly that number left on the island. The Council people were still drinking tea (we had beers) -so much for their 10 minutes! Well the ferryman couldn’t leave the important people could he? Though later he said, “He would!” So we had an extra 20 minutes and got a glimpse of Piel’s King-the pub landlord out and about the island.

 

The tradition of crowning the landlord of the Ship Inn is thought to be a mocking 19^th century reference to the attempt of putting 10 year old Lambert Simnel on the throne in1487 which ended in a crushing defeat. Each new landlord is sat on a wooden throne wearing a helmet and brandishing a sword. After dousing him in alcohol he is proclaimed king and has the power to make knights and baronesses of Piel of anyone who does a service for the islanders ( 4, I believe) The pub has regulars from further afield – kayakers and boat crews. There are cars on the island and we did see one waiting for the tide to cross but this worried the council workers some and it could be an expensive trip if they get stuck in the sand. Presumably the locals know the safest route.

 

Our ferry dutifully came back for us stragglers. He said he always says he is finishing earlier than he actually does- usually an hour after stipulated- an easy going jolly fellow. The American’s with us were excited by the eider ducks. There are many on this bit of coastline. So back at the car by 5 we continued on our journey home, satisfied that although they were small we had completed another 3 islands.

 

 

This is Island 31 of our 100 Island adventure.
Bobs video at https://youtu.be/d9xtbvcuwCA

 

03-Jun-2015 St. Marys Isle and Inch

We began our day with a walk to the power station dam at Tongland a few miles away from Kircudbright. We thought that the dam was on a small island and therefore worthy of a visit. We were disappointed to hear that the Power station’s visitor centre, only refurbished in 2010, is no longer open. Perhaps we could get to the dam though!

We started walking near the A711 then crossed the Thomas Telford Tongland Bridge, dangerous in its narrow paths and lorry traffic. The river rises and falls over 6 metres and when we drove by on Tuesday the river bed rock had been visible. At the end of the bridge was a footpath along the river Dee’s bank leading to the grand looking Power Station. The river was running rapidly away from the Station towards the bridge, dark and turbulent.

We turned right at the road and followed it for a mile. We could hear loud noises from the quarry nearby. There were red kites hunting over the fields on the right. There was some sort of industry on the left of the road. We climbed quite a way and were overtaken by some elderly lady cyclists. Down a cul de sac by some houses we found the bridge to the dam but there was no way to get to it- all was fenced off.

We retraced our steps and saw the water had been turned off from the Power Station and the river was calm. We didn’t feel too disappointed today as we had a good walk and our expectations were set a good deal lower.

 

Threave House and gardens were our next destination. Unfortunately because the storm had taken out power to the house the day before there was a backlog of visitors who had booked the house tour. We just walked the gardens which were lovely and spent a while in the bird hide in the woods watching red squirrels and woodpeckers. Delightful!

 

After having a light lunch at Threave we went to Galloway forest and did a circular walk- with the midges- near a river with waterfalls -which was beautiful with wild flowers and very secluded.

 

We decided to visit the wildlife centre near Kircudbright  and had it to ourselves. Beware the rutted and stony track to the place. Ring tailed lemurs were running loose and we could get really close. Bob has a problem with zoos. It was nice to see servals and wild cat, tapirs and capybara but they wouldn’t be in this environment naturally. A few had passed away and not been replaced which was odd to read on their enclosures. Children could handle guinea-pigs and I am sure earlier in the day other species would be available. Although the centre is run down a bit the animals looked happy and I was looked in the eye more than once!

 

It was a lovely late afternoon so we decided to try for another island. The peninsula of St Mary’s Isle lies in the estuary of the river Dee just south of Kircudbright. It divides the bays of Manxman’s Lake and Goat Well bay. The tidal islet of Inch lies just offshore in Manxman’s Lake.

It was a circular walk of over 3 miles including Inch. We had to climb several fallen trees and we had to carefully pick our way across little grassy boggy patches. Most of the walk was beside more wild garlic that I can no longer smell, much to my dismay. There was a wide track used by joggers and the odd car or bike, but mostly we were on our own. We went anti-clockwise and the first part was definitely the prettiest. Through trees with views across the water we reached the end of the peninsula. Here trees had been felled and removed leaving sites of dereliction. It was here we had to climb over smaller exposed trees that fell naturally and the ground was boggier presumably because there was little to soak up the water. We could see the tide was out and the island looked accessible. We noted where we got through the undergrowth ( a tree with a hole) and went across grassy hillocks like stepping stones in water. Care was needed as a slip down could twist an ankle. There were plenty of discarded mussel shells. An oyster catcher became very agitated and we presumed there was a nest nearby. The island had long grass and a few trees, by our definition big enough to support one sheep for a year and therefore an island despite it being tiny. We soon saw what there was to see and left the oyster catcher in peace. The rest of the walk was less inspiring and we had probably clocked up about 8 miles walking today.

 

Here is the link to Bobs video

 

 

 

02-Jun-2015 An abortive attempt at reaching Barlocco and Ardwall.

We were staying at Anchorlee, a B and B enjoyed on our round coast trip and we felt that we were thought a bit mad for trying to get on these islands. We knew timing was a big issue as there was only a small window between tides. Anyway we decided to go and take pictures while neighbouring Barlocco and Ardwall were still surrounded by water, then go back just an hour or so before low tide.

We drove the cycleway toward Carrick, the nearest spot to Ardwall. On a lane hedged with wild garlic we had to turn round as a tree had come down in the gales and blocked the road. The cyclists we passed had all carried their bikes over it but we had to take a circuitous route.

 

It is a gated road a short walk from Carrick and the grass here is for parking and picnics though it can’t cope with too many cars- there isn’t the space. This area is in between the 2 islands. The sea was rough and I had my doubts I must say. Anyway we vowed to come back later. Barlocco looked very flat, featureless and longer than Ardwall, which has trees, a 100 foot hill and a history of habitation.

 

We looked around the Gatehouse of Fleet and the Mill catching up with some of the cyclists from earlier. One American lady had lost an ear ring so we told her about the Gem museum at Creetown. We decided to get our lunch there and go round the museum. I had gone round it briefly before but Bob hadn’t. I think it’s a feast for the eyes and amazing to think it is a family collection. The cyclist had her replacement earrings! And we killed a few hours while waiting for the tide.

 

Someone had moved the tree and we drove up by Knockbrex Castle ( self catering accommodation and looks a fantastic place) till we reached the gated road. The grass is very lumpy for parking a little Corsa but it was fairly firm. It looked like the tide still had a good way to go out but we decided to walk to where we’d have to cross to Barlocco. It has been said that access is possible 3 or 4 hours each tide.

 

We walked around Knockbrex Bay after taking a path from near the road gate. It was clear where to walk though not always easy down a shrubby field.  At the bay we had to carefully pick our way over rocks, soft sand and water gushing out to sea from the land. Here were navigational columns out in the sea. Back on the grassy bank we followed round to a derelict stone building. Our B and B lady said it was used as a dressing area for bathers. A sentry box was a little further along. There was another grassy bit and then rocks. I went so far but could see that the sea had quite a way to go before we could safely cross and it was nearly time for low tide. Bob went to the edge before he was willing to concede defeat. When we talked about it afterwards we decided that the full moon had affected the tide maybe in conjunction with the stormy weather.

 

I watched a hare run from the beach (oddly) up on to the grass, stopping for a good look at me before it went out of sight. Did they eat seaweed? We both looked at the other island which was still in a similar sea-locked state. On the way back to the car we walked above the water in the bay on the narrow bank and the bridge. Then I found it hard to get down from the rocks. I have been suffering with a frozen shoulder and as I slipped Bob caught me by my bad arm. It was agony but shortly afterwards I thought maybe he had done me a favour for I was walking straighter and the dull ache subsided. Next day it was better than it had been for ages. Well done Bob!

 

 

Low tide was 0.60 which wasn't good enough to get across to the island!

 

01-Jun-2015 Threave Island

We follow the signs for the osprey viewing and not the House and gardens and found the car park down a little lane, small and seemingly on part of a farm. There are buildings being refurbished supposedly a visitors centre.

The wind was high and it was raining a little. Several swallows’ nests decorate the toilet block and one of the birds narrowly missed hitting me on its way there. We couldn’t hear young though so maybe he was just after flies. Apparently the bad weather has affected the number of swallows this year which is really down on the norm but nevertheless we were excited by the numbers we saw down by the river later.

 The path is well kept between fences and sometimes wall, through field, by marsh and then woodland bespattered with bluebells. We couldn’t see the castle till we were nearly there and then the Tower came into view. Threave Castle belongs to Historic Scotland and sits on a low grassy holm in the River Dee just outside of Castle Douglas.

 

At the jetty there is a bell hanging with which to summon the small ferry boat. We didn’t have to wait long as people were just leaving. The boatman seemed very happy in his job and luckily this bit of the river was protected from the wind making a pleasant crossing. Both he and the lady in the ticket kiosk were very friendly. It was under £4 each for OAPs including the little boat trip.

 

The fourteenth century castle was dark and cold as the wind whistled through the windows, tiny on the vulnerable walls but larger on the boggy side. We entered by wooden steps into the first floor where there would have been a kitchen. The ground floor was a cellar with a well ( in case of siege) (not looking very deep today) and a prison in a dark corner. We looked down into it from above and glimpsed a body, hopefully a dummy though this would be the only “prop” in this atmospheric edifice.

 

There were good views from the large windows. The osprey, which has a nest actually on the island, has been seen catching fish in the river here. It was very dark ascending the spiral staircase to the last surviving level as out of five floors two and the roof are missing, though the walls, in part, remain.

 

Outside are the remains of more fortification. Other buildings present on the site at the time of its heyday are marked by grassy mounds. Only a third of the island’s size today was above water but visitors are denied access to the grassland beyond the fence leading to the nest. Meanwhile on the shore an RSPB volunteer keeps a vigil. We enjoyed looking through her binoculars and telescope after the boat trip back across the Dee and were rewarded with a glimpse of the osprey leaving the nest.

 

We learnt later that the boat was cancelled the next day because of the storms, so we felt lucky. We went out to the hide (Not that for the osprey) on the way back and watched some gulls and ducks but the wind was too high for much. Swallows dipped and dived over the water but the best place to stand was at a gap in the hedge at the fork in the path. As they zoomed past from field to river they missed us by a hairs breadth.

 

The wind blew in earnest across the last stretch of exposed path and the rain came and we were cold and very wet by the time we reached the car. Castle Douglas was a short drive and we had soup for a very late lunch there. We had been driving all morning so we were pleased that our B and B was little more than 10 miles away, in Kircubright.

Here is the link to Bob's Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBl5wgjMHY0