Burry Holms

29^th October

Yesterday we hadn’t enough time between tides to take in the 2 islands either side of the Bay. Low tide was about an hour later today so we decided to walk to the tidal iron lighthouse before visiting Burry Holms. We could park in the village, Llanmadoc in a designated field (near the church) where there is an honesty box for the required £1.

We walked back down through the village, the opposite way from the Britannia Inn, until a junction when we went right between a holiday house and Cym Ivy café and crafts. The map is marked Cwm Ivy and just down from here we took a path on the right towards the National Trust Bunkhouse. A path down to the beach was closed. We walked under pines passing several dog walkers. On the right of the path was a bird hide overlooking the salt marsh. We learnt from another walker that this was only recently transformed from farmland by a breach in the sea wall. This had been used as farmland since the 17^th century but the walls are Medieval. The wood of the hide smelt new but unfortunately graffiti covered the shelves and paper designated for people to record wild life spotted here. Most people think it is the children who stay in the bunkhouse just a little way down the track. Another bird hide on the salt marsh opposite perhaps fared better. A pure white egret was the only bird we could easily spot without binoculars.

We were walking towards Whiteford Burrows with Berges Island in front of us. Bob thought the lighthouse to be at least another mile further than the island that is not an island but woodland. It was taking longer than we planned and we didn’t want to miss the window for crossing to Burry Holms. I wanted to see the only cast iron lighthouse in Europe but it was hidden either behind dunes or the trees. We had to retrace our steps back to the car park as our original planned route was longer. The walk had been lovely and I hated the time restrictions!

We drove several miles to Broughton Caravan Park and the visitor’s car park at the site entrance. From here we took a footpath at the left of the car park which eventually took us through the sand dunes and out onto the beach. It was quite a maze and not always clearly marked. We enjoyed the toadstools and furry caterpillars that played dead on the sandy path. Maybe they ate sea holly, for skeletons of the leaves were strewn about. We watched a red kite with its distinctive forked tail. We didn’t know they were this far from Pembrokeshire. It was a clamber up the dune to the top where we could see the beach below. Several people have had fires here with shells in the residual charcoal. We wish people wouldn’t dump their rubbish in beautiful places but at least it wasn’t spread about all over. Perhaps they were coming back for it!!!

 

 

 

The stones on the beach were lovely pastel shades of pink, blue, grey, green, and colours in between. We spent a while handling the smooth rounded pebbles and walking about a deeply embedded shipwreck where you could see most of the outline of the ship by the wooden parts left showing through the sand. Surfers were trying to surf on the feeble swell today. We think it is usually very good here judging by the numbers of surf boards we have seen.

 

Burry Holms is less than 100 yards from the shore. It was once an inland hill overlooking a large plain. It is a gentle mound in shape and much smaller than its counterpart at the other end of Llangennith beach. There was a bit of rock scrambling and it wasn’t very clear of the best route for climbing up on to the island. You could see the sign warning people to watch for the tides, but, to head for that looked too difficult. A narrow path had been made by some walkers and we followed that up to the top of the mound. It was grassy and still had some wild flowers even in late October. We didn’t see much sign of the ancient history attached to this place which dates to Mesolithic times. Flints have been found here from the Iron Age and remains of a hill fort can be discerned but we must have missed them.

At the seaward end, what could have been the concrete base for a gun or even a small cannon, made a round landmark. We needed to take care as the path was quite narrow in places and the sands with rough rocks around the island’s base would have made a nasty end in case of a fall.

We liked the island but it didn’t take long to walk it. The journey here was as much part of it and recommended. It looks like many people walk the cliff from Rhossili instead of the Caravan Park route but however you do it I am sure you get the feel that Burry Holms is quite remote.

 

 

 

 Worms head, Rhossili

28^th October 2016

We decided to take a couple of days break at half term to do the 2 islands off the Gower Peninsula. They didn’t entail taking a boat but access depends on the tides. Bob is still getting over pneumonia though he only knew about it once it was on its way out. The distances we would walk would be minimal……so we thought.

We stayed in a bed and breakfast on the Peninsula in a little village with a great community feel. People here take turns to run the community shop and café with cakes supplied by villagers, our B and B hostess included. Ann and David keep chickens and make silver jewellery. The house is full of David’s paintings and attractive pottery which was used for breakfast.

Today low tide is at 11.30 and we are OK to cross the causeway from 9.15 till 2.50. We left straight after breakfast. After watching a few Youtube clips I had decided that wind might be a problem here so we wrapped up warm. There is a National Trust car park near Rhossili village where members can park for free and this was almost empty when we arrived.

The morning weather was good, sunny and some blue sky. The views are stunning. A fantastic stretch of sand in the bay gives way to gentle surf today. This beach is popular with surfers. A few stick figures, from our elevated viewpoint, dot the beach and sea. Looking right as we walk towards the island a solitary white building set in the hill faces the Bay. The Old Rectory, of the 1850s, is owned by the National Trust for holiday lets (up to 7 people) We meet a handful of people going either way and feel relieved that we won’t be the only ones crossing today.

A murmuration of starlings catch our eye. Across the sands we can see the other island we will try to walk to tomorrow. Its causeway is still under water. A car passed us on the rough track with 2 uniformed people inside, heading for the coastguard’s lookout cottage. It is staffed by volunteers belonging to Coastwatch and as strandings are regularly occurring this manned outpost is vital. A board here confirms safe crossing time.

Worm in the context of the island's name is to do with the shape of the island and worm means dragon in a corrupted form of old English. It looks like a dragon looking out to sea here, though when we were on the island the head seemed to be not long after the causeway at the base of the hill.

We left the track for the grass beside the cliff edge, up towards the coastguard lookout and then followed the path down to the exposed rocks forming the causeway. We could hear seals calling and then see them at the base of the island ahead. As the tide isn’t yet out completely we have to pick our way carefully round large rock pools and the terrain is very up and down. It would be easy to twist an ankle. The rocks are encrusted with tiny mussels which helps to give grip to our walking boots. We think that though wellies might be drier the sharp edges would be felt through softer rubber. We have read that it usually takes fifteen minutes to cross the rocks.

 

 We thought it took us nearly an hour, though it was much quicker on the way back. There is no marked route so there are thousands of ways one can cross and obviously our outbound journey was not the quickest way. I couldn’t have managed without a helping hand from Bob as I teetered on one foot between rocks.

Across the sea was a band of dark and Lundy loomed on the horizon. We could see a few people on top of the Worms Back. Nearer the sea the rocks were more pebble like and flatter and here we passed a huge rusty anchor, a testament to turbulent seas.

We gratefully climbed onto the grassy bank and a path took us along the base of the island after we decided not to ascend the high ridge. We had hoped to get to the very end of the Worm where we could see the natural arch of the Devil’s Bridge and perhaps experience the Blow Hole. A lady sat on the grass watching her family on the rocks ahead. She had hurt her back on the way over and had decided not to risk crossing yet more tricky terrain. Bob was adamant we wouldn’t make it either so I tried to prove him wrong. The rocks are the result of pressure tipping the strata to an almost vertical angle and erosion made them rather jagged. Legs went down between the rocks and this was exhausting. To my right was the sea far below. Not for the feint hearted and wanting to get back in one piece we opted out, a bit disappointed.

As we walked back there was a large parasol fungus like a crepe on a stalk. People started passing by and there seemed to be a steady influx of visitors now- the sun must have brought them out. We were very warm. As we reached the dreaded rocks of the causeway someone said to look out for the seal stranded there. It was a little like looking for a needle in a haystack as we scanned left and right. Looking down, just as I was bemoaning the fact that we weren’t likely to find the creature, I jumped, as it was close enough to touch, right by my feet. It looked very sad, like they do, with still some of its pup fur covering its body. Too heavy to carry to the water it lay on the rocks, looking like its legs/ flippers were crossed, waiting for the tide to come in.

It probably took half the time coming back despite time seal watching. Back up at the Lookout the volunteers had a blazing fire going(Perhaps not needed today)  We couldn’t believe how many people were setting off so late as we walked back along the track (reputedly a mile from the Lookout to National Trust shop- but I would say more) The car park was full to the brim and we met guests from our B and B who said they had booked their lunch at the eatery here because it was so busy. We learnt later that it was self- service so why did they have to book? They weren’t impressed.

Anyway we loved the walk. I had Bob’s cake, homemade by Ann to go with our welcome-tea the night before, to eat as we walked. We had a rare close encounter with a baby seal. The scenery had been fabulous!