Ardwall

Sunday 6^th May

The trip to Ailsa Craig from Girvan was cancelled even though it looked like a sunny day with hardly any wind in Ayr where we were staying. We were told the boat couldn’t go in that much wind. It was foggy over the sea though and part of our road journey later. In the end I was quite relieved as it sounded like the boat is only safe in perfect conditions and every boat recently had been cancelled. Our back up island, Ardwall, is tidal and low tide is around 10am. We only received the cancellation message at 8 so we set off immediately towards Fleet Bay in Dumfries and Galloway.

The island’s closest mainland point is Carrick but there isn’t an actual causeway just muddy sand. After parking on the grass where a thin pole seems to mark the best crossing place ( though it doesn’t actually say it is.) Instead a waterproofed paper tells the reader the coastguards number but our mobiles didn’t work here anyway!

 We reckoned we’d get 2 hours- 1 hour either side of low tide to be safe. But we didn’t arrive until nearly low tide. The height of the tide today is 1.7 metres. Last time we tried to do this island it was 2.7 metres and the sea never parted to reveal a safe path across. Luckily the tide revealed to us a stretch of exposed sand about 200 yds so we set off expecting to get wet but safe in the knowledge that we had dry clothes and other footwear.

 

From the grass bank it was a few rocks then about a third of a mile of sometimes boggy, sometimes with a few inches of water, dirty sand. The sky was a lovely blue and the sun shone with just a haze left in the distance from the early fog. Sometimes our feet were sucked under but unlike walking across Morecambe Bay it felt safe and probably best to press on, picking the drier paths. It took us about 5 minutes to get to the pretty beach on the other side. There was plenty of bladder-wrack and rocks were encrusted with large mussels. Later we spotted someone collecting some- Moules Mariniere?

The trees here looked like they might have been part of a garden. We followed a path of trodden down vegetation up and across to the other side of Ardwall. On route we admired several thrushes anvils scattered with snail shells. The wild life here would have the place to themselves most of the time. The highest point is 100 feet above sea level and we admired the view from the stone cairn marking this.

There were signs of human activity- a rusting car wheel, tyre tracks on the grass, and a cottage on the island is let for the summer so people do come and go apart from visitors like us.

We met a couple and a young family who came over just after us, but we didn’t see rubbish or hear loud music except for the birds- the peace of the place was intact unlike Crammond, near Edinburgh. We could see the other island in the bay we’d tried to cross to a couple of years ago, Barlocco. We’d given up trying to battle with slippery rocks. I remember it, though, for the hare on the beach which seemed a rare and a special sighting. On the other side of us are the Murray Isles probably best visited by boat.

On Ardwall Bob was lucky enough, as he led the way, to see a deer run into the bushes. It must have been stranded. We didn’t see it cross back to the mainland though and the grass looked lush enough to eat. The flowers are beginning to come out here- bluebells and celandine. It is a pretty island with little bays and a quite a few trees- unusual for a small tidal island. Straying from the path takes us into brambles, bracken and gorse so it was best to keep to the path. We had hoped to see the remains of an old chapel marked on the OS map, but it must have been hidden by vegetation.

We walked around the shore, as far as the sea, with an eye on the shrinking passageway then reluctantly made our way back to the car. It would have been a splendid place for a picnic if there had been time.

I hadn’t noticed how wet my feet were. The sticky mud had permeated my trainers and they took days to dry out when we arrived home. We had enjoyed our 3 islands and are hoping one more trip will round off our 100. There are 11 to go if we want to reach our target this final year and we have booked ferries to the Hebrides.

 

Isle of May

5^th May

It only seems fitting that we visit this island, this month. The cold weather has made the nesting season later in this area, but we are still hoping to see puffins among other sea birds. We had contemplated taking hard hats after the sheer violence of the terns nesting on the Farne Islands. We forgot hats as it was so hot and sunny.

We’d stayed the night on the Pittenweem border in a B and B from an earlier era. We were served by 2 young waitresses dressed in black who were ultra- polite and everything was done rather ceremoniously- which meant it was a protracted 3 course dinner (though very nice) and we worried a little about arriving on time for the ferry in the morning. We had to be there 20 minutes early by the web site, 30 minutes and then 40 minutes early as the booking progressed. The boat left on the dot of 8.45am. Breakfast normally served at 8 as a concession was served 7.45. We’d ordered our choice the night before and decided that we would have a full breakfast in case we couldn’t get anything for lunch. The ferry times change with the tides and this is the earliest that they leave.

The boat leaves from the harbour in Anstruther and there is a long stay car park there which only cost £1.20 for over 4 hours. Bob dealt with the parking ticket while I went to the hut for the boat company where they had piles of paperwork for all the 100 people on the boat today- most will have booked on line like us. I took our papers and then gabbled on about not having any sunblock. One of the crew said he’d give me some on the boat which would start loading in 15 minutes. I thought I might have time to run back to a baker’s we’d spotted on the way to the harbour, so I left Bob to queue.

It was only quarter past 8 and the shop looked dark inside, but the door opened when I turned the handle and there was a shop assistant ready to help. Armed with a pasty and sandwich I hurtled back down the road. Most passengers had already boarded and Bob was looking anxious. The boat, The May Princess was full to its capacity. We thought it was rather small for so many people.

We sat at the front of the lower deck fairly near the toilet which was chained off until we sailed, as it emptied directly into the sea. I decided there was no way I was going to use it and hopefully not many do. I wonder if this is the norm for all boats. I was kindly given sun cream from the crew’s first aid kit. We came prepared for cold with warm layers but despite a bit of a breeze it was glorious.

The sea was as calm as it could be, flat and glistening with sunshine, which shone on us through the open door. On the dot of 8.45( we’d been on the boat sometime) we left the harbour and there were superb views of Bass Rock and the Law at Berwick. As we neared the Isle of May there were ever increasing numbers of birds- guillimots and puffins. The boat took us close to the rock faces on May, one at least 50 metres high where there were crevices crammed with kittiwakes, fulmars, gulls, guillimots…..and on the tops puffins were poised ready to take off. What a noise!

We came in through a rocky channel and the boat moored. All around the rocks were spattered in yellow like someone had gone mad with paint. This turned out to be lichen. We were met by one of the island’s managers. She didn’t keep us long but told us a few dos and don’ts (part is off limits as it is a reserve kept as a control to judge the impact tourists are having on the main island) and what to lookout for in the way of wildlife.

With almost 3 hours to go we walked towards the reserve, Rona, which is joined by a bridge making a natural barrier. Everyone went in different directions which gave us a feeling of isolation despite our numbers. We walked along Holyman’s Road past the whitewashed Low light, first used in 1844 and secondary to the Main light built by Robert Stevenson but when aligned together they indicated the position of dangerous North Carr Rock. When the rock had its own light, the Low light was turned off. It looks well kept nonetheless and is used as a bunkhouse for birdwatchers.

Next we came to Burnetts Leap and down on the rocks were sea scoured white planks and at other locations, like where the seals haul out, is evidence of the same cargo tossed onto the craggy shore. In places around the island we saw some made into organised heaps, perhaps with a useful end in mind.

We noticed lines of rusty iron pipes, of large diameter, connected over-ground and thought they might carry water. We learnt later they transported compressed air to the fog horns, one on the south side and one on the north. They didn’t blast together and they sounded out for different lengths so that mariners knew which horn was which in the fog. In 1989 they were deemed unnecessary and the horns were permanently silent.

At Alterstanes we walked down the steps as far as we could go for the alternative landing place. The iron railings at the top seemed very rickety. I’m glad we didn’t need to use this today.

We walked back by way of the High Road and up to Bishops Cove for a fabulous view passing a female eider duck looking a little lost as she waddled by- maybe hunting for a nesting site. They have to be the most placid of bird species, often laying eggs right beside footpaths.

 Retracing our steps, we came back to the High Road and made our way to the gothic looking main light house. Meant to resemble a castle it looks more like a church but Robert, grandson of Robert Louis Stevenson, can be forgiven for its folly-like exterior as he had just completed a lighthouse on Bell Rock – a feat of engineering! Older than the Low light it was built in 1816 and is a listed building now. There’s a good view from the top and a white light now flashes every 15 seconds with a range of 22 nautical miles. Friday night we had walked towards Pittenweem from the B and B, watching the sunset across the sea. The light, 5 miles out, winked at us, brightly.

Opposite is the Beacon, now 2 thirds of its original size so that it doesn’t obstruct the lighthouse beam. This 17^th century building ( Scotland’s first manned) had an open fire basket on top that was fed by coal- 4oo tons a year and required 3 men to look after it.

A walled garden now untended except for the net traps for bird counts on the island and bath house with 2 ceramic sinks and a bath are near the lighthouse. A fairly steep walk down Palpitation Brae, edged with sea campion, led to a freshwater Loch though it looked man made and didn’t look at all fresh but distinctly green. This was used in the cooling system for the compressed air for the fog horns. There was some rusty cable that was used in the detection of submarines probably during the War and some rather boring farm type buildings.

We walked the South Plateau and looking out to sea the birds appeared like insects massing over a pond. There are cameras at Pilgrims Haven and the warden had warned us that this footage is viewed live at North Berwick- in case anyone wanted to skinny dip! The CCTV stars are a pair of shags who have been given names

Looking down at Maiden Rocks I saw a ramshackle nest of large twigs and a seemingly huge white egg. I was told by a lady with a party from a RIB moored next to our boat that it belongs to a shag and they commonly lay 3. That was the only actual nest we saw today- the weather had made for a late breeding season.

The last place we visited was the ruined 12^th century priory and other scattered remains. The artic terns arrived after our visit on the 8th May and this site with its stone walls provides good nesting shelter. Nine priests lived here in the Priory’s day and prayed for the souls of the kings of Scotland. There is enough left to lend itself to the imagination, but we were hungry and soon bagged ourselves a picnic table on the surrounding grass to eat our pasty and sandwich. From here we could see the ferry where us passengers had been invited to return to whenever they liked. There was a little snack bar selling drinks, crisps and chocolate bars which was open. There is nothing to buy on May though there are toilets and a visitor centre that would provide some sort of shelter in rain.

After a body count, the boat took a route around the other side of the island to where the seals haul out. There were a few and we learnt that seals lay on rocks, with their tails in the air, to keep warm. Blubber keeps them warm in the water, but their flippers and tails have none, so they feel the sea’s cold at these places.

We retraced back the way we came, after viewing the seals and more planks of wood strewn around the rocks, through the busy bird highway. It took about an hour to reach the harbour and we had just sailed in the harbour entrance when the boat suddenly stopped. We looked over the side and the bottom of the sea looked remarkably close to the surface, the water clear. The water wasn’t clear for long as the propeller started churning up mud and sand- the water wasn’t deep enough for the boat. We sat at this point for some minutes waiting for the tide to come in some more. Eventually we crept in further where sailing ships were moored and the skippers and crew looked on, some horrified, at the noise the boat made as it scraped the sea’s bottom with the propeller. It took several sticky moments for the crew to get the boat close enough to moor it and then we were so far down the pier wall we wondered how we’d all get off. They fixed the ramp at a steep angle and we all virtually pulled ourselves up by the hand rail, using the struts on the ramp to climb. Some elderly people needed assistance. We didn’t worry too much as we had noticed our “pilot” was one of the lifeboat- crew!!

It was a lovely day though and we enjoyed it a lot. Many people flocked to the tea rooms and chippies for an extremely late lunch. We headed off for Ayr where we would stay hoping the boat we’d booked for Ailsa Craig would be running from Girvan.

 

 

 

Loch Leven Castle Island, Kinross

Friday 4^th May

 

We drove 4 and a half hours from home to Kinross, full of narrow streets with give- ways and quite an unlikely place to have a lake. There was a minute to go on the sat. nav. and we were still surrounded by old buildings and then town houses. Surprisingly, round a bend we came to a boat yard and we could see Loch Leven. There is an unmade car park and some buildings towards the lake comprised of a bistro, the booking office for the boat to the island and castle and then nearest the lake an outdoor eating area with a mobile café.

We bought tickets at £6 each (concessions and otherwise £7.50) and were told the next boat was at 2pm so we had 20 minutes wait. It was chilly and overcast so we opted for the bistro where they were happy for us to sit in arm chairs by the door with a pot of tea. Dogs are positively encouraged here with blankets and bowls of water available. We think the only loo was in this building.

Loch Leven has a 13 miles traffic free path round it for walkers and cyclists. There were plenty of cyclists around. It is 6 km at its longest side and is roughly triangular in shape.

Historic Scotland run the boat trip out to the castle. I expected some running commentary on the 10 minutes it took for our group of eleven people to cross but the young man steering the small motor boat, well wrapped up for wintry weather ( but with sun glasses) seemed far away, restricting his speech to only the necessary. We sat next to a bronzed group of 3 older men, recently back from holidays in the sun and off away again next week, who told the story of Mary Queen of Scots to us. In a previous life one could have been a guide he spoke with such enthusiasm or maybe it was local pride.

In 1567 Mary was imprisoned in the castle (belonging to the Douglas family at the time) after surrendering to rebel Scottish lords. Her husband had been murdered and she had been having an affair with Boswell (later husband no.3) who was probably the father of the twins she miscarried during her incarceration. There was a failed attempt at escape. helped by the castle owner’s son, George when she exchanged clothes with a servant woman, but the boatman couldn’t be duped, suspicious of the tapered fingers holding the muffler and part way across he rowed her back.

 The successful escape with the help of the young Douglases, George and teenager William (an adopted son) took place on May 2^nd 1568 through a window, used as a postern gate, after purloining the keys from the dining table. They locked the gate after them and threw the keys into a cannon. Even Mary was said to help row the boat back to land where she proclaimed herself, “ Queen once more.”

The island is bigger today than it would have been in Mary’s time. In 1830 the water level of the loch was lowered by over a metre. Originally the full castle (about half remains) would have occupied all the much smaller island.

Built in the 1300s the tall tower house is entered by the 2^nd floor. The first 2 floors would have housed the kitchen and service area. Mary had her rooms on the third floor of the five. It was said to have been comfortable.

There is a surprising amount of castle left to see and we enjoyed exploring it. On setting foot on the island we were told that the next boat would be in 40 minutes. We walked left first and passed the toilet block, then under the trees behind the curtain wall of the castle until we reached a gate with a no admittance sign. Nearby is a ring of cut tree trunk seats presumably set out for storytelling.

As we walked we were followed around by a mist of what we thought were midges ( the bane of Scotland!) but on closer inspection we saw they were tiny flies, non- biting but causing us to itch non the less. Someone suggested they were corn flies. We thought maybe this would be a good place for a picnic but maybe not if they are there all summer.

The square 5 floored tower, where Mary had her accommodation on the 3^rd floor, dominates the site. Narrow stone spiral staircases lead to the different floors and you have to use your imagination as to how the rooms would be arranged though they were said to have been comfortable. Built in the 1300s the tower house is entered by the 2^nd floor and underneath is the vaulted basement. The first 2 floors would have housed the kitchen and service area and we walked over a service “hatch”, a trapdoor here. There are information boards all around the castle area but we only cursorily read these.

 

The round Glassin Tower built much later around 1500 is set in the SE corner of the ancient wall. The vaulted basement was used for storing water accessed from the courtyard. Separate holes allowed loch water in, while slop water went out through a slop drain. You could feel the damp.

There is an oriel window in the lower chamber with views over the loch and above the higher chamber is a very small room, only accessible from the wall’s walkway, that was probably a library or study.

Oyster catchers flew around the walls noisily. Maybe they had a nest up on there and were using diversion techniques- an unusual bird to see at a castle!

The weather took a turn for the worse and the nippy wind had light rain in it. Several us of strained to see the boat return. It doesn’t seem to go in a direct line, sweeping way out around the island opposite that I believe is a bird sanctuary- maybe that is why!? We were only 9 going back as 2 of our outward party had not got off the boat earlier. We were glad to leave the flies, but it had been well worth a visit. We decided to drive straight away to Anstruther where we would stay Friday night ready for a boat trip out to the Isle of May early Saturday.