The Seven Small River Islands of Prague

 Sunday 26th July 2015

 

We flew to Prague for an international folk assembly with more than 70 groups from many countries. We had a fantastic time meeting many lovely people. Prague was especially vibrant and very hot!  Our North West Morris team was on Czech TV and we were made to feel like celebrities, as in colourful kit and face paint (despite our senior years), crowds of people took our photos. We stayed on after the event to see more of the sights and decided that we would walk the 7 islands on the river Vltava. As they are so small we thought we would count them as one.

 

We stayed at a hotel in Wenceslas Square. An all day public transport ticket costs 110kc which I think is about £3 and this saved us a lot of time and money. We took the no.3 tram and just got off when we thought we were far enough down the river. There were plenty of cycle paths here, but roads in the city were more of a free for all. These cycle paths doubled as footpaths and there were plenty of fast cyclists to avoid as well as adult scooters and roller skates!

 

It wasn’t very pretty at first but certainly quieter than the city. We went over the bridge to Veslařský Ostrov, our first island. There were plenty of well fed ducks and swallows dipped over the water. We passed a floating restaurant cum hotel and turned left behind it. It wasn’t far to the ferry point at the islands end. The small boat left every 20 minutes to the opposite side of the river and was well used by families of cyclists as a route to the cycle path we had been walking on.

 

There were plenty of fishermen towards the other end of the island. An alarm went and one rushed to reel his line in for what looked like a whopper, judging by the bend in the rod. He nearly finished reeling when the line went slack and it was an anticlimax – bait gone but an empty hook! Pike was on the menu boards in several places so we think that’s in the river.

 

Further up was a smart building, the police social club. It looked like a hotel. Beyond this was a high metal fence that might have been electric and though there was a path through the trees this was not for the public. From the other bank this bit looked really pretty with willows hanging over the water and underneath a heron hunted fish.

 

We turned back noticing the numerous apple trees and some deep blue wild flowers though the right colour, definitely not cornflowers. A really huge flying insect, maybe a hornet made us jump. Throughout the week wasps became quite a problem and several of our Morris team were stung.

 

Off the island, unfortunately back the way we came, we walked back towards the city stopping for coffee at a lovely place labelled Rest. It was windy and cooler in this shady spot than the 30 degrees when we arrived and we were brought blankets.

 

We walked on down to another ferry point where we took a boat to another island, Cisařska Louka.

The ferryman was dressed in a white sailors outfit and the boat could fit around 8 people. We were able to use our all day transport ticket. A Czech cyclist came over with us and said that what we thought were city walls is the site of Prague’s other castle, the one the Czechs prefer to go to( not so many tourists) We couldn’t see how to get up there today but we made it on our last day in Prague. It had a wonderful Art Nouveau church up there though not much to show there was a castle. This was better than the cathedral for us and we enjoyed the views over the river.

Back to the island! The ferry man took us over the other side then back to where we started then eventually to the island which seemed to be mostly a camp site. It was pleasantly relaxing on the water. There were more swans here than anywhere.

 

There were lots of leisure facilities like the golf driving range which was fairly exclusive labelled private so not many people were using it. Likewise were children’s play areas, and empty cafes. We could see back to the “police” island and the fenced off area looked like it contained an electric generator. We walked about a mile till we came to some boat houses, colourful though one must have had a fire judging by the piles of charred wood. Then it was over a little bridge by offices and we were on the less touristy side of the river.

 

 

After crossing the road we took a bus (using the ticket) but it only went as far as the bus station. We walked towards the main part of the city where 3 bridges later we should be able to get to island 3 but, rather hot, we opted for taking the metro 2 or 3 stops where it looked as if everything was closed with very few people about. It was Sunday. We spotted an area with a few shops and restaurants so we got off and found a friendly Italian restaurant. This was the only place we were given a free bread basket (with a garlicky cream cheese) while we waited for our meals which only cost us an equivalent of £6 each including beer.

 

 

 

 

At the bridge before Charles Bridge we came to Détsky Ostrov, island 3. This comprised of a park and restaurant but unfortunately the park was locked up we think for refurbishment but it was looking overgrown. There was a good view of the dancing building (1996) from here- the narrow waisted glass tower against its formal ,upright ”partner”. This island took only a few minutes to look round.

 

Between island 3 and Kampa, island 4, there were tour boats queuing in the canal beside the river to go through the locks. This is known as the devil’s stream. It hardly seemed like an island as we suddenly seemed to be on it. We walked by a graffiti wall then there were 3 upright tree trunks I believe to be named Titans. This was certainly the busiest island with a lot of unusual sometimes grotesque modern artwork displayed around it. There is a museum devoted to 20^th century and contemporary art from central Europe. It is housed in a renovated mill building. We didn’t go in as we were put off by the sculptures outside it, like the wolf tearing the adult head of a baby (grotesque in itself) in glorious technicolour- pools of blood!

 

 

We liked the huge baby sculptures that children enjoyed climbing and the bronze shone where hundreds of hands have rubbed over it. I would have preferred them to have faces though. David Cerny, the sculptor of many controversial pieces around the city, had given them imploded slot machines instead of facial features.

We came off the island by a collection of 17^th century houses, one a marionette shop/ museum that was shut today. A tiny bridge took us onto Charles Bridge which crosses the northern side of Kampa. Locals call Kampa the Venice of Prague because it is prone to flooding but it is also romantic and peaceful. The crowds and noise of the bridge was shocking after the relative quiet of the morning.

 

 

 

Still Sunday, we took a tram back to the hotel for a short rest. We were certainly getting our pound of flesh from the use of our ticket as we metro-ed back to the river. Crossing a bridge, Hiarvkus-Most we went down some steps at the petrol station here to take us on to island 5, Ostrov Štvanice. It looked a bit rough as we started off, passing by teenagers in an area designed, though roughly, for BMX bikes. Despite looking less than inviting we spent a while watching the river from the island’s far end and were surprised to see a few people out walking it. It was nice to be away from crowds. A powerful weir crosses the river to the right and just below it stood a lone fisherman, water to his thighs. We couldn’t see how he had managed to get there with banks of concrete around the edge. I thought he was a quirky statue at first but we saw him cast his line. He really is there but you can't see him in the picture.

 

We walked back in the direction that we had come, but on the weir side of the island, which took us under the road and on until we came to iron gates. Confusingly we could see someone lying on the grass, through the bars. Beside this were skips full of disguarded revolving doors of different designs. On our right seemed to be a football stadium and we walked up beside this to the water on the city side, aware of a loud rolling noise becoming ever louder. It was a prefabricated skate board park. A kiosk here was selling beer and though there was a huge disparity between ours and the average age here, we were served the cheapest brew that we had had so far. Obviously we weren’t to be trusted with glasses (we had plastic disposables!) like the others but we were happy to sit on a shabby settee on the dirt path and watch some of the skateboarders. There had been a competition in October last year and the prize put up was the equivalent to £1000. What we saw today was a bit tame though!

 

We could get down to the end on this side and there were a few collections of people in sunbathing costumes. We went under another tunnel and as I tested for echoes- luckily not yodelling this time- I disturbed a “down and out” sleeping up under the railway. There were quite a few here by the signs of al fresco living- cooking pots and sleeping bags were left around. One man looked very organised in his space under a tree, a proper bivouac! It was sad to see another rooting through the rubbish sacks. There seems to be tolerance though as no one was moved on.

 

We saw a lovely Painted Lady butterfly but not many suitable butterfly flowers. We watched a tour boat in the lock as it slowly went down with the water level. It looked almost empty but then we noticed most people were eating below deck- the weather was still glorious despite it being evening now. There seem to be too many cruise boats for the number of people using them.

We passed empty tennis and netball courts as we walked back towards the road via a pedestrian and bike tunnel.

 

 

Tuesday 27^th July 2015-08-01

 

There were 2 tiny islands left to complete. We took the little bridge from Masarykovo onto

Slovanský Ostrov, island 6.  This is where most of the pedalos on the river are hired and the designs are quite bizarre like giant swans and vintage cars. There is a little replica Victorian train running and enclosed by box hedge for small children. They have their own kiddie bar! We could just see the dancing building from here. There are trees around the edge of the island and we were amused to see a sign depicting “no peeing in the park”. It took us about 20 minutes to walk round.

 

 

We crossed most of the Vitezna Bridge till took the lift down onto Střelecký Ostrov, island 7. There is a stage, closed up today but Sunday we could hear Jazz coming from here when we were on Kampa and as we looked across we could see the 3 trees.

There was play equipment for 8-15 year olds and rules and regulations everywhere. There was a nice feel to the park though and good views of the river. Several jackdaws seemed tame they kept so close. The wind whipped up the sandy path into whirlwinds. We won’t take a pedalo today!!

At the far end is a gourmet restaurant and behind it tennis courts. At the island’s edges it is left natural and people were kept off. There were some unusual wild flowers. Again it took 20 minutes to walk round.

 

We enjoyed our island walks and despite there being little to see on them the views were different and pleasant and we were away from the crowds of tourists. It was certainly worth doing!

Here is Bob's Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOVl-JV90kU



 

14-Jun-2015 Hulses Island

This island just 0.6 miles long was created when the river Weaver was canalised to help larger boats reach salt mines in the area. It wasn’t named on the OS map we had but it is near to Monks well and Vale Royal Locks.

 

It was a drizzly sort of day and with a free afternoon we decided to walk it and see if it was worthy of island status. We parked the car just off the A556  before the turn off for Hartford and just after the blue iron bridge. There isn’t much space but enough room for about 5 cars. A lot of the area here is designated angling area and private. The one and a half mile walk down the tarmac lane towards the Lock is flanked by many different species of tree. We were really surprised to see an ash already fully out with this year’s  abundant  seeds. It was certainly a sheltered spot and there seemed to be no trees down from the storm on the 1^st June. On one side there are rhododendrons and on the other Himalayan balsam. The birds sang loudly but not enough to cut out the noise of the road or trains over the viaduct across the Weaver. It did get quieter further down the track though. A helicopter flew over but the dense trees meant we couldn’t see it. There was no one about until we reached the end of the tarmac. There are several routes marked which looked interesting but we focused on the island. We took a left through a gateway and over a black iron bridge with swallows whizzing underneath. The iron work was very open making it easy for a child to slip through. We were on the northern end of Hulses Island.

 

 

On the right is a pool with upright branches very suitable for kingfishers but we have been told people only usually see them flying overhead at this point so perhaps there aren’t many fish in here. We took a trodden down path to the left until the grass became too long. We loved the yellow flags growing along the river bank that will hopefully entice butterflies when the weather is more settled. The sun did come out which made it hot –for at least 15 minutes! After retracing our steps we walked toward the Vale Royal locks. Water cascaded down the weir cum sluice which controls the level of the water above the lock. It was built in 1791. Not far from this, just ahead is a stile which we climbed and followed the trodden down grass path left by others. The lock keeper told us that they don’t mow the grass on the land owned by the Anglers. There were countless wild grasses and we tried in vain to get a photo of a beautiful damsel fly, darker blue than I’ve seen before with a black spot on its wing, when it settled on a blade of grass.

 

 

We had to step carefully for geese poo, smelly and in large quantities covered the “path”. We later counted 16 Canadian geese on the non canal side of the island swimming in the muddy waters. The water was brown and we couldn’t see down through it. Near a little concrete marker at the side of the canal we found the bones of a fish cleanly filleted. Mink have been spotted further down the Weaver in the past and we wondered if they might do this. Birds would eat fish whole and this was once a big fish!

 

The bridge at the southern end was fenced off so we just retraced our steps. There were mallards, black headed gulls, wagtails but not the expected heron. We saw rings made by the fish. Bob was getting bitten so the midges were out. It doesn’t look like many people walk this way and dogs are not allowed on the length after the stile. Several cyclists took the towpath over the other side of the canal and further southwards, a bittern had been sited the previous year. Down at the pool there, are kingfishers but we are walking or cycling islands so we focused on our task enjoying the 3 mile walk but feeling a little cheated that the interesting wild life wasn’t in our patch.

 

 

Link to Bob's video is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC9MQSUgfok

 

 

04-Jun-2015 Piel Island

We left Scotland for home, travelling via the Lake District so we could visit Piel Island from Roa Island off Barrow-in –Furness. It was late in the afternoon 3.15 but we thought there might be a boat today. The sea was a lovely blue where it was charcoal and choppy the last time we considered going across. Several people milled around but they were mostly taking in the sun except for three people from the Council who were going over “ for 10 minutes” according to them. They came with us in the little outboard motor boat that was licensed for 12 people. The sea was calm as a mill pond and it took between 5 and 10 minutes. Both jetties were very slippery and with a few holes- stilettos beware!  We reckoned we had only 20 minutes as the boat man wanted to finish at 4 though he did say we had about an hour. We just thought he couldn’t do the maths.

 

Piel is small but with a terrace of grey houses, a pub, animal enclosures holding pigs and hens,

a castle ruin and a duck pond. It was lovely, quite a sun trap. People we met in the pub garden often took their boat by way of Piel. They had just sailed from the Isle of Man and said the last time they came they couldn’t moor the boat at the island, the storm kept them at bay for 3 days and the lady was black and blue from the rolling of the sea.

 

There was no sign of tadpoles in the pond but it was clean with some birdlife. The 14^th century castle, owned by English Heritage, is mostly just a massive keep which seemed to be barricaded up. Outer building ruins and walls were there to walk round and the grass is kept short by somebody. The walls have been repaired in places with pink sandstone.

 

Below us on the shingle beach a family were paddling and collecting shells in buckets. Most people were sitting at tables in the pub garden. At 4pm the little boat came and went with its allotted 12 people and there were still nearly that number left on the island. The Council people were still drinking tea (we had beers) -so much for their 10 minutes! Well the ferryman couldn’t leave the important people could he? Though later he said, “He would!” So we had an extra 20 minutes and got a glimpse of Piel’s King-the pub landlord out and about the island.

 

The tradition of crowning the landlord of the Ship Inn is thought to be a mocking 19^th century reference to the attempt of putting 10 year old Lambert Simnel on the throne in1487 which ended in a crushing defeat. Each new landlord is sat on a wooden throne wearing a helmet and brandishing a sword. After dousing him in alcohol he is proclaimed king and has the power to make knights and baronesses of Piel of anyone who does a service for the islanders ( 4, I believe) The pub has regulars from further afield – kayakers and boat crews. There are cars on the island and we did see one waiting for the tide to cross but this worried the council workers some and it could be an expensive trip if they get stuck in the sand. Presumably the locals know the safest route.

 

Our ferry dutifully came back for us stragglers. He said he always says he is finishing earlier than he actually does- usually an hour after stipulated- an easy going jolly fellow. The American’s with us were excited by the eider ducks. There are many on this bit of coastline. So back at the car by 5 we continued on our journey home, satisfied that although they were small we had completed another 3 islands.

 

 

This is Island 31 of our 100 Island adventure.
Bobs video at https://youtu.be/d9xtbvcuwCA

 

03-Jun-2015 St. Marys Isle and Inch

We began our day with a walk to the power station dam at Tongland a few miles away from Kircudbright. We thought that the dam was on a small island and therefore worthy of a visit. We were disappointed to hear that the Power station’s visitor centre, only refurbished in 2010, is no longer open. Perhaps we could get to the dam though!

We started walking near the A711 then crossed the Thomas Telford Tongland Bridge, dangerous in its narrow paths and lorry traffic. The river rises and falls over 6 metres and when we drove by on Tuesday the river bed rock had been visible. At the end of the bridge was a footpath along the river Dee’s bank leading to the grand looking Power Station. The river was running rapidly away from the Station towards the bridge, dark and turbulent.

We turned right at the road and followed it for a mile. We could hear loud noises from the quarry nearby. There were red kites hunting over the fields on the right. There was some sort of industry on the left of the road. We climbed quite a way and were overtaken by some elderly lady cyclists. Down a cul de sac by some houses we found the bridge to the dam but there was no way to get to it- all was fenced off.

We retraced our steps and saw the water had been turned off from the Power Station and the river was calm. We didn’t feel too disappointed today as we had a good walk and our expectations were set a good deal lower.

 

Threave House and gardens were our next destination. Unfortunately because the storm had taken out power to the house the day before there was a backlog of visitors who had booked the house tour. We just walked the gardens which were lovely and spent a while in the bird hide in the woods watching red squirrels and woodpeckers. Delightful!

 

After having a light lunch at Threave we went to Galloway forest and did a circular walk- with the midges- near a river with waterfalls -which was beautiful with wild flowers and very secluded.

 

We decided to visit the wildlife centre near Kircudbright  and had it to ourselves. Beware the rutted and stony track to the place. Ring tailed lemurs were running loose and we could get really close. Bob has a problem with zoos. It was nice to see servals and wild cat, tapirs and capybara but they wouldn’t be in this environment naturally. A few had passed away and not been replaced which was odd to read on their enclosures. Children could handle guinea-pigs and I am sure earlier in the day other species would be available. Although the centre is run down a bit the animals looked happy and I was looked in the eye more than once!

 

It was a lovely late afternoon so we decided to try for another island. The peninsula of St Mary’s Isle lies in the estuary of the river Dee just south of Kircudbright. It divides the bays of Manxman’s Lake and Goat Well bay. The tidal islet of Inch lies just offshore in Manxman’s Lake.

It was a circular walk of over 3 miles including Inch. We had to climb several fallen trees and we had to carefully pick our way across little grassy boggy patches. Most of the walk was beside more wild garlic that I can no longer smell, much to my dismay. There was a wide track used by joggers and the odd car or bike, but mostly we were on our own. We went anti-clockwise and the first part was definitely the prettiest. Through trees with views across the water we reached the end of the peninsula. Here trees had been felled and removed leaving sites of dereliction. It was here we had to climb over smaller exposed trees that fell naturally and the ground was boggier presumably because there was little to soak up the water. We could see the tide was out and the island looked accessible. We noted where we got through the undergrowth ( a tree with a hole) and went across grassy hillocks like stepping stones in water. Care was needed as a slip down could twist an ankle. There were plenty of discarded mussel shells. An oyster catcher became very agitated and we presumed there was a nest nearby. The island had long grass and a few trees, by our definition big enough to support one sheep for a year and therefore an island despite it being tiny. We soon saw what there was to see and left the oyster catcher in peace. The rest of the walk was less inspiring and we had probably clocked up about 8 miles walking today.

 

Here is the link to Bobs video

 

 

 

02-Jun-2015 An abortive attempt at reaching Barlocco and Ardwall.

We were staying at Anchorlee, a B and B enjoyed on our round coast trip and we felt that we were thought a bit mad for trying to get on these islands. We knew timing was a big issue as there was only a small window between tides. Anyway we decided to go and take pictures while neighbouring Barlocco and Ardwall were still surrounded by water, then go back just an hour or so before low tide.

We drove the cycleway toward Carrick, the nearest spot to Ardwall. On a lane hedged with wild garlic we had to turn round as a tree had come down in the gales and blocked the road. The cyclists we passed had all carried their bikes over it but we had to take a circuitous route.

 

It is a gated road a short walk from Carrick and the grass here is for parking and picnics though it can’t cope with too many cars- there isn’t the space. This area is in between the 2 islands. The sea was rough and I had my doubts I must say. Anyway we vowed to come back later. Barlocco looked very flat, featureless and longer than Ardwall, which has trees, a 100 foot hill and a history of habitation.

 

We looked around the Gatehouse of Fleet and the Mill catching up with some of the cyclists from earlier. One American lady had lost an ear ring so we told her about the Gem museum at Creetown. We decided to get our lunch there and go round the museum. I had gone round it briefly before but Bob hadn’t. I think it’s a feast for the eyes and amazing to think it is a family collection. The cyclist had her replacement earrings! And we killed a few hours while waiting for the tide.

 

Someone had moved the tree and we drove up by Knockbrex Castle ( self catering accommodation and looks a fantastic place) till we reached the gated road. The grass is very lumpy for parking a little Corsa but it was fairly firm. It looked like the tide still had a good way to go out but we decided to walk to where we’d have to cross to Barlocco. It has been said that access is possible 3 or 4 hours each tide.

 

We walked around Knockbrex Bay after taking a path from near the road gate. It was clear where to walk though not always easy down a shrubby field.  At the bay we had to carefully pick our way over rocks, soft sand and water gushing out to sea from the land. Here were navigational columns out in the sea. Back on the grassy bank we followed round to a derelict stone building. Our B and B lady said it was used as a dressing area for bathers. A sentry box was a little further along. There was another grassy bit and then rocks. I went so far but could see that the sea had quite a way to go before we could safely cross and it was nearly time for low tide. Bob went to the edge before he was willing to concede defeat. When we talked about it afterwards we decided that the full moon had affected the tide maybe in conjunction with the stormy weather.

 

I watched a hare run from the beach (oddly) up on to the grass, stopping for a good look at me before it went out of sight. Did they eat seaweed? We both looked at the other island which was still in a similar sea-locked state. On the way back to the car we walked above the water in the bay on the narrow bank and the bridge. Then I found it hard to get down from the rocks. I have been suffering with a frozen shoulder and as I slipped Bob caught me by my bad arm. It was agony but shortly afterwards I thought maybe he had done me a favour for I was walking straighter and the dull ache subsided. Next day it was better than it had been for ages. Well done Bob!

 

 

Low tide was 0.60 which wasn't good enough to get across to the island!

 

01-Jun-2015 Threave Island

We follow the signs for the osprey viewing and not the House and gardens and found the car park down a little lane, small and seemingly on part of a farm. There are buildings being refurbished supposedly a visitors centre.

The wind was high and it was raining a little. Several swallows’ nests decorate the toilet block and one of the birds narrowly missed hitting me on its way there. We couldn’t hear young though so maybe he was just after flies. Apparently the bad weather has affected the number of swallows this year which is really down on the norm but nevertheless we were excited by the numbers we saw down by the river later.

 The path is well kept between fences and sometimes wall, through field, by marsh and then woodland bespattered with bluebells. We couldn’t see the castle till we were nearly there and then the Tower came into view. Threave Castle belongs to Historic Scotland and sits on a low grassy holm in the River Dee just outside of Castle Douglas.

 

At the jetty there is a bell hanging with which to summon the small ferry boat. We didn’t have to wait long as people were just leaving. The boatman seemed very happy in his job and luckily this bit of the river was protected from the wind making a pleasant crossing. Both he and the lady in the ticket kiosk were very friendly. It was under £4 each for OAPs including the little boat trip.

 

The fourteenth century castle was dark and cold as the wind whistled through the windows, tiny on the vulnerable walls but larger on the boggy side. We entered by wooden steps into the first floor where there would have been a kitchen. The ground floor was a cellar with a well ( in case of siege) (not looking very deep today) and a prison in a dark corner. We looked down into it from above and glimpsed a body, hopefully a dummy though this would be the only “prop” in this atmospheric edifice.

 

There were good views from the large windows. The osprey, which has a nest actually on the island, has been seen catching fish in the river here. It was very dark ascending the spiral staircase to the last surviving level as out of five floors two and the roof are missing, though the walls, in part, remain.

 

Outside are the remains of more fortification. Other buildings present on the site at the time of its heyday are marked by grassy mounds. Only a third of the island’s size today was above water but visitors are denied access to the grassland beyond the fence leading to the nest. Meanwhile on the shore an RSPB volunteer keeps a vigil. We enjoyed looking through her binoculars and telescope after the boat trip back across the Dee and were rewarded with a glimpse of the osprey leaving the nest.

 

We learnt later that the boat was cancelled the next day because of the storms, so we felt lucky. We went out to the hide (Not that for the osprey) on the way back and watched some gulls and ducks but the wind was too high for much. Swallows dipped and dived over the water but the best place to stand was at a gap in the hedge at the fork in the path. As they zoomed past from field to river they missed us by a hairs breadth.

 

The wind blew in earnest across the last stretch of exposed path and the rain came and we were cold and very wet by the time we reached the car. Castle Douglas was a short drive and we had soup for a very late lunch there. We had been driving all morning so we were pleased that our B and B was little more than 10 miles away, in Kircubright.

Here is the link to Bob's Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBl5wgjMHY0

 

03-May-201 Cribinan and St Cwyfan's church

Island 28 of our 100 Island adventure.

 

We were going to walk out to Cribinan along the coastal path from Aberffraw,  just over the bridge at the estuary and sand dunes. The sand dunes are quite a feature as some are 30 feet high. We walked along the village side of the river.

Cribinan itself is tiny and tidal with a 12^th century church , St Cwyfans, perched on the top. The walled (to protect it from sea erosion)island is only a little bigger than the building, which stands out being white washed, for all the world looking like a green iced cake!

 As we started the walk the mist started to clear, burnt off by the sun.  It was a 4 mile circular route hardest on the way to the island being slippery and boggy in places though beautiful with views across to Snowdonia.

 

We walked along the estuary out to sea picking our way over rocks, then by fields where erosion had taken the land back to the fence posts. We could hear intermittent engine roaring and I thought it was the engines of model planes but when we were nearing the village on the way back the noise was very intrusive and we saw it was cars on a race track on the hill opposite Cribinan.

 

The tide was almost right out and we think you probably get 3 hours either side of it to visit the island. We walked on the wet sand until we got to the rocks. The shells have been pretty and varied and this beach is great for rock pooling. A line of dark boulders, maybe once used as stepping stones as the tide comes in, marks the route to the island steps. At the steps there is a warning sign about the steep drops to the sea or rocks below.

 

The church wasn’t originally built on an island. Sometime after the 17^th century a storm is thought to result in its formation. In the 19^th century graves were falling into the sea so the wall was built around the island giving it its distinctive cake like appearance. There are few graves left but one looks particularly ancient. The church has been restored before but it obviously needs more doing to it. There are services here in the summer. I am surprised they don’t empty the collection box built into the wall. I had to poke something in the hole to push the coins down, it was so full.

 

In 2008 the village was presented with an organ for the church which was carried across the causeway by churchwardens and farmers. We couldn’t see inside the church unfortunately as the windows let in little light and all was locked up!

 

We enjoyed a roast dinner at the Crown in Aberffraw and some real ale. It was 2 hours in the car home and 2 days later my legs still ached from all the stairs at South Stack!