06-April-2015 Isle of Wight Day 2

We had breakfast outside in the sunshine as it was warmer out than in. It was fine despite having run out of eggs. We were adverts for passing trade that perhaps he didn’t want but felt obliged to take. I think he just couldn’t say no but the family luckily didn’t want eggs!

Pheasants seemed to roam wild in this lovely village. We cycled by Mottisham Manor Gardens, too early to be open and a traction engine ralley with lots of puffing with steam. Unfortunately we soon hit the coast road busy with cars. Gorse filled the banks and the larks were singing over the fields. There were lovely views of the cliffs and sea and we climbed a lot.

Hot and thirsty we found a cafe attached to a large hotel- Dandelion Cafe- at Freshwater. There were many different varieties of leaf tea to choose from but we were boring and had breakfast. The cups however were china bowls – no handles! At least we didn’t have to sit cross legged on the floor.

There were more hills and busy roads with plenty of cars overtaking us. We had the last laugh though as there was a half a mile traffic jam to the Needles car park and we sailed on past them. It cost £4.50 to park( cars that is) We left the tandem in designated bike parking and walked to the Battery(NT), 20 minutes of beautiful clifftop walking. Though it looked like bikes weren’t permitted on the road here plenty passed us and later an open top bus. Behind us was rather like Lands End with plenty of amusements like a 4D cinema and rides for children. The chair lift to the beach looked fun. We were heading to the Battery as that gave the best view of the Needles.

 

During the mid 1950s to 70s the New Battery was used as a secret rocket test site. There is a lot of concrete, any lesser building material long gone with weathering. There is quite a lot to see and children ran in and out of the dark buildings and they, and us, found the tunnel to the searchlight intriguing, further than we expected, underground with access via a circular iron staircase. The view of the Needles was best from the searchlight even though you were looking through steel mesh. There was a large gun emplacement and plenty of exhibits giving an idea of what life on the Battery might have been like. Because the use of the guns was causing damage to the cliff the New Battery was built higher up in 1895 but we decided not to visit that one.

The lighthouse, Trinity at 109 feet, clings to the most westerly rock , the front “needle” when looking out from the Battery.

There is a little cafe serving simple fare, with not much space inside (but there are tables outside). We bought drinks but were disappointed with the food.

Walking back it was easier to admire the different coloured sands in Alum Bay on its cliff face. Victorians started off the souvenir vial of sand stripes but whether it is this sort of pilferage or just the weather erosion, it is less impressive than advertising posters would suggest. The sun was shining so we must have seen it at its best. There was pink, grey, white, shades of yellow at least but I wonder for how long. You can still fill your own vial today as part of the attractions!

We were told that the person who commercialised Lands End also took on Alum Bay. I wonder if it is ever quiet here as there are so many people. However there is a wide area for people to spread out and the beauty of the place still comes through!

 We rode into Yarmouth breaking the 30 mile an hour speed limit. The road was bumpy. On the green was a bouncy castle and children’s games. We seemed to be in and out very quickly though and as there were too many cars on the road we came off it and into the lanes. Immediately it was more relaxing. A couple of miles up we came to Chessell Pottery which had a tea shop. There was a workshop where all ages were sitting painting pre-fired clay pots, plates etc. They would be fired again and filed on shelves for collection another day. It all looked very organised. The pottery professionally made was very expensive but lovely.

We had tea and cake in the garden,

 

It was another 3 miles to NT Mottistone Gardens. There were instructions for kids- 50 things to do before 11 ¾ - like roll down the grassy bank! Better than the keep off the grass signs you get sometimes. National Trust seems to be more hands on than it used to be.

All around the garden were little flowerpot men with unusual names like Allium Titchmarsh and we were dared to handle a giant slug in a flower pot in the kitchen garden. Glad to say it wasn’t real but we weren’t sure for a bit.

There is a grass maze needing some TLC to redefine its paths and the border planting is interesting and colourful though I am sure there will be more to see in the Summer.

We didn’t need a tea break unfortunately. There are lovely walks from here and the 12^th century church looked interesting but we pressed on for the last 2 miles before the B and B. We had only cycled 23 miles with a 2 mile walk for the Battery and Needles but it seemed enough!

 

We visited the church in Brighstone which must be the best looked after Church of England. The warmth hit you as you walked in and for a 8oo year old church this is surprising. While we looked around- no hard wooden pews but chairs set out fairly informally- a lady was in the belfry cleaning round the bells with a hoover. She didn’t speak as we looked through the wares on display for people to buy. I bought a smiley face tape measure for our grandson who would love the retraction mechanism and a boxed glass angel for our granddaughter and put money in the honesty box. The lady vicar here was said to have married Benedict Comberbach ( of Sherlock Holmes acclaim) and his film director fiancée only2 weeks ago, just down the road but this is heresay from our B and B host.

 

 We decided to visit Ventnor for our evening meal so we used the car. This is certainly an island better for walking as there are few places to cycle off road. We packed the bike in the car and set off. Luckily the windows were open and there was a loud metallic crash- we’d left the heavy duty bike lock on the roof of the car. It was retrieved before a lorry ran over it and we reached Ventnor without further mishap. What a hilly place!! Steeply down to the seafront we passed people puffing on the way up. It took a while to find somewhere that suited us but we were pleased with our freshly cooked meals with vegetables including butternut squash. They were large portions too.

 

We drove up to a car park overlooking Blackgang Chine to watch the sun go down. Below us looked like a rollercoaster in yet another amusement park. Set in trees and fading light it didn’t look out of place though.The sun was an orange ball looking like it was suspended over the sea and not on the horizon, an illusion made by the clouds around it. We watched, entranced, along with several others as it sank in minutes.

 

Back at Brighstone Bob had a beer while I tried one of the gluten free puddings at the 3 Bishops, the pub on our doorstep. It’s called that after the 3 rectors, one the youngest son of William Willberforce, slave trade abolisher, who were once rectors of the Parish church.