January 1st 2016
St.Mary’s Island, Tyne and Wear
We left at 8 am with very little traffic on the roads. The
island, St Mary’s and lighthouse would be open from 10.30 till 3.30 to coincide
with the tides. It is situated a little off the coast just past Whitley Bay. We
followed the road down to the 2nd car park which normally requires a
ticket. Despite it being a bank holiday some cars displayed tickets but the
machine appeared to be out of paper when we got to it and displaying out of
order. It would have been 80p an hour.
Despite the cold wind it was fairly busy with people taking
air on the beach or walking to the lighthouse. The car thermometer hadn’t registered
much above freezing all the way here and it was the coldest day so far this
winter. The short concrete causeway suddenly disappears when the tide comes in,
signs warn.
The 1898 white lighthouse is an impressive monument but a
redundant one except as a tourist attraction. The keeper’s cottages have been
turned into a visitors centre by the local council and around the island is
nature reserve- wetland, grassland and rock-pools. It is all rather low key.
We were fascinated, on the walk over, by a group of middle-aged
men in snorkelling gear, playing like seals in the shallow water just beyond
the rocks. Maybe a New Year cold dip! They were still there when we came out of
the museum though.
We watched a squadron of cormorants fly past in formation
like ducks. The island has a bird hide but this is more for observing seals who
use the rocks below as a haul out area. This is where they rest, moult or breed
and it is vital to their well- being. Everywhere you go on this island there
are signs telling the public how to behave around them as seals easily stress
and become ill. One sign said if you were bitten by a seal no matter how small
a wound it should get attention quickly as it could become infected. Volunteers
regularly seal watch. There aren’t any colonies during winter. There was a gap
on the wall of the hide where once there were binoculars. A sad indictment of
the times!
Inside the lighthouse ( it cost us £1.50 each as pensioners)
we were shocked by the state of disrepair. Plaster had fallen from under the
steps and the platform just before the final push to the light. A picture I had
seen looked so different. The spiral staircase of 137 steps has a handrail
against the wall while there are railings with glass or plastic at the “drop”.
I have a fear of heights so I thought Bob would go up and take photographs. As
it turned out, I went up, determined one of us should do it and Bob gave in to
the quite understandable misgivings. Logic was saying that plenty of people had
gone up before us- some quite small children. It was the areas of peeling
plaster that made you think twice but once I got started the stairs weren’t
steep and there were flat areas where you could pause to let someone pass. It was
best not to look down too much.
I manged some watery pictures through the
windows and had the weather been better there would have been glorious views. At
the almost top there were very enclosed narrow stairs to get to the light and
you were advised to walk backwards down them to get out. I seemed to be alone
at this point so I drew the line at that but still pleased with myself walked
quickly back down hugging the wall all the way.
There is a small museum with a model boat, shell collection
and various things for kids to do to teach them about the environment. A little
gift shop sold drinks and snacks and because of the visitor numbers they opened
up the upstairs function room to accommodate people.
The geology is interesting here and you can see the coal
seams in the strata under the car park from the island. There are plenty of
information boards though it was too windy to stand reading them for long.
We found a really friendly pub called the Melton Constable (
seemingly a train not a policeman) with a folk music session though we had to
sit away from it in order to eat. It was warm but we didn’t stay overly long.
We found our Premier Inn stop over and went for an invigorating walk around the
lake that is part of the country park here. We had earnt a free bottle of wine
with our points accrued and we shared a huge piece of fish and a steak which
were both delicious.
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