Monday 11^th April

 

Today we decided to spend the morning around Ramsey while it rained and then later do the cycle route taking in Peel and St John’s where Tynwald Court is held. This route is marked on the ordinance survey map.

We visited Grove House, Victorian and untouched by the present day, in fact it seemed like the 19^th century owners had just gone out for the day. Ship builder Duncan Gregg from Liverpool bought and developed the original cottage to the much larger house ( though by mainland N. T. properties it is quite small) He was worried about cholera in the summer and sent his wife and daughters away here for healthy holidays. It became their permanent home later after Duncan became the victim of embezzlement. The 2 daughters lived in Grove House all their lives and Janet the longest survivor bequeathed it, intact, in her will to the Manx nation. I like the fact that Duncan used ship flooring and the wallpaper looked original and undamaged by sunlight. Having little money meant the sisters couldn’t afford to change anything.

 Resourceful, they were self- sufficient. Upstairs is a beehive and the guide said he thought the bees had all left but we noticed a few arriving through the tube to the outside. Alice had worked in a munitions factory during the war and there are touching love letters across the years to and from her young man. The sisters were dutifully following their aunt’s request that neither would marry and would look after the house, garden and pony!  Years later, after the first world war, the 2 sisters were quite poor but living as if they had money-keeping up appearances. It is rather sad that they could have sold up and lived a more comfortable life.

We went to Milntown House for a coffee and if the weather was better we would have explored the gardens. I was impressed with their gluten free scone. It was so light and crumbly and with jam and cream, delicious! They were laying the tables for lunch, examining glasses and cutlery with precision as if for gentry but it felt relaxed and friendly.

We decided to find a waterfall which should be good after all the rain we had today. Between Peel and Kirk Michael is one of the highest in the Isle of Man at Glen Mooar. It’s called Spooyt Vane which means white spout and is strictly outside the glen’s boundary but a sign says you can visit it by courtesy of Mr T J Curphey. We parked in a small car park by a cottage and I thought it unlikely but Bob’s navigating skills are well honed. It was a short walk to some rugged steps down to the base of the fall. It was splendid and felt quite isolated.There are remains of a chapel and a priest’s cell. Also 2 stone pillars are all that is left here of a 19^th century railway viaduct.

We drove 15 miles to St. John’s, Tynwald Inn where we had ham, egg and chips in front of a blazing fire that was generous and cheap for the isle of Man. Across the road you could see the steps in grass that form the ceremonial venue for Tynwald Court that’s held here every 5^th July.

We left the car in the car park and left for the 11 miles of very steep hills up and down that made the peel circuit. We hardly saw any cars being on mostly narrow C roads. We had to walk quite a bit today. It was up a hill covered in pine trees and past several farms. Pheasants, rooks, crows and jackdaws were ever present. After 3 and a half miles of climbing and traversing a ford in one of the dips, there was a lone motor cyclist scrambling around a disused mine- a substantial ruin. Just past here we bore right. After a mile and half it was another 2 miles down into Glen Maye village on a narrow winding road. Then it was down the A27 towards Peel.

We managed to buy a drink from a café in Peel but despite it being a weekday it was really quiet everywhere. Large people carriers kept arriving and parking on the double yellow lines and pavement to visit the little supermarket (only one at a time though) which kept us on edge as the tandem was parked on the opposite pavement so we could see it. People didn’t seem to worry about walking in the road, but we didn’t want to cause an accident so we left soon after.

The sea here was very rough today.

We left Peel by Poortown Quarry on our left and after a double bend we turned right into a narrow lane going steeply down to a stone bridge over the river Neb. We passed Tynwald Mills ( hiding some shops) and carried on through tree lined narrow lanes till reaching the junction with the  Douglas to Peel road. Here we were back with Tynwald field on our left and the car in the car park of the pub. As we reached the main road, to cross it, the wind whipped the bike and we struggled to keep upright. The weather had certainly got worse. Even holding the car doors steady for loading the bike was a feat.

We ate at the Bay Hotel and the chef surpassed himself with duck and an orange jus with sweet potato mash. Delicious!