Oronsay
Thursday 9th June
Colonsay and Oronsay are separated by a wide expanse of
shell sand called the Strand. It would be safe to cross this when the tide is
out enough, at 1pm today. We get to the crossing point just after this and there
are several people collected here already. There is a small car park.A lot of
people have ridden bikes and left them. Everyone seems to be waiting for
someone to commit to going. We are the only ones crossing with a bike and it
does look a little crazy as we, the first ones to go, step onto the beach.
The tandem leaves odd wheel prints on the sand. The wheels
it seems are not aligned behind one another but cross each other’s paths making
a thin figure of eight. Someone told us the next day they had followed our
prints back from the island.
A lady from Morecambe Bay walked with us though she hasn’t
done the 9 mile walk to Grange over Sands which we enjoyed a few years ago. At
first the water was shallow enough to allow us to keep our shoes on. We were told
to follow the tracks on the sand which we dutifully did but we noticed some
people were walking right out and wondered why.
Bob said we were across and we came up onto some dry land.!
The lady from Morecambe followed though at this point we were riding. A lady
came out of her house and asked if we were visiting her. When we said no she
wondered where we thought we were. She told us Oronsay was way over where we
had seen other people walking. It was a good job we didn’t have much of a
following. The Strand was much larger than expected and the tracks had misled
us. The postman had visited the lady who was on an inaccessible bit of Colonsay
”mainland”, and left us false tracks.
There was still a long way across the sand to go. It was
bumpy, puddled sand with many worm-casts. Later there were large expanses of
water and a lot of seaweed looking like a small variety of bladder-wrack. Bob
took his shoes and socks off but I held out till it was clear that I would get
wet inside my shoes if I didn’t. Now the sand was peppered with sharp stones
and bits of shell, cockles and mussels. I saw tiny shrimp like creatures- maybe
krill- and small crabs. The seaweed was slippery and it was hard picking our
way across for probably best part of 1½ miles.
We came up onto some rocks at last and then there was a
track we could ride though it was stony. It took a while to clean off the sand
but the path seemed good all the way to the monastery ruin. (We had hoped to
ride around the island but the RSPB rent the area past the ruin from the
American lady who owns the island. Other paths seemed to be private too though
maybe it would be possible to visit seal island in the Autumn when the seal
pups are there- can be up to 1,000.) The population here is only 5 to 6 people.
It was maybe another
couple of miles and the ruin at Colonsay Farm came into view. It was free to
walk around though there are no facilities here at all. At the entrance is a tall
3.7 metre celtic cross featuring a relief of the crucifixion and an older small
monastic sign with a figure of a monk.
The buildings that have been in
existence since 1353 and maybe founded by the Lord of the Isles, are
fascinating. The place has a peaceful
atmosphere. It’s a shame some of the stones were removed to build the
farmhouse. Gruesomely some human bones are kept by the high altar in the
chapel.I liked the miniature cloisters.
Both the farm and priory cum monastery are well looked
after. Someone was mowing the grass when we were there. The farm buildings are
immaculate and the round barn is especially interesting.
The views of Jura and
Islay from the area are lovely on this sunny day. A peacock struts through the
farm behind the ruin and 3 ducks that looked totally black inside the ruin but
in the sun they shimmered green, blue, black and brown. I couldn’t find a match
on the ‘net.
After an abortive attempt at trying to find seal island, off
beside the flat fields that used to be a landing place for planes, we headed
back for Scalasaig. It would take at least an hour.
Bob kindly pushed me through the watery bits on the bike so
I didn’t have to get my feet wet. A crab swam underneath but we managed to miss
running it over. On rocks that would soon be surrounded by sea, oyster catchers
were being harassed by gulls. The gulls must have been after the chicks of the
agitated oyster catchers though we couldn’t see a nest. We left them having a
staring match! At the end of the causeway there were mounds of tiny pink
flowers- really pretty.
It was worth the trek we thought. The tide would turn at
3.30 and we were back at the hotel waiting for dinner at 4. We had a drink of
the local beer and socialised some more after visiting the local church which
had a small art exhibition.
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