20-Sep-2014 Holy Island (Off Arran)

Saturday 20^th September - Island 22 of our 100 Island adventure

Our wedding anniversary and it was cycling up the steep hill again out of Brodick towards Lamlash after a lovely breakfast. We were taking the boat to Holy Isle at £12 return each. It was a grey day and probably raining on the mainland. There was to be a charity swim across the 1½ mile stretch of water to the island. As we reached shore on the very small boat with just 4 of us passengers, it became windy and a lady from the retreat on the island was there to welcome us and tell us a bit about Holy Isle. The island belongs to Samge Ling Buddhist community, originating from Tibet.

 There was a group of horses (from Eriskay) on the grass below the retreat (out of bounds today) and we were asked not to interact with them as they roam and forage wild. They seem healthy enough living on the grass and bracken, several with foals.

Next came the Saanen goats. We were told we would smell them before seeing them but the wind blew in the wrong direction. They had fantastic horns, especially the larger males. They were eating seaweed- maybe dry bladder-wrack. All along the shore was a straight band of red seaweed marking the high tide line.

 We visited the 6^th century cave of St. Molaise, shallow, paved and open to the elements despite being in a sheltered spot but with a good view to sea. Runes can be seen on the ceiling, the legacy of a visiting Viking ship.

 There was a reputedly healing spring and Bob was brave enough to try it. I was a bit wary of it because of the animal thoroughfare. He said it was OK though. We stepped over many large manure heaps on our way round to the lighthouse!

 The rock paintings were a surprise. They were engraved in beautiful colours with intricate patterns depicting figures from Buddhism like White Tar and Green Tara which were painted in 1999! People had left shells, tiny gems and bits of driftwood as votives before the paintings.

 The path was well kept between the bracken and the sun came out giving us clear sea views. As we passed round the island after the 1^st lighthouse( Inner)and cottages of the closed women’s retreat we went by some pods where the “monks “live. They were built into the side of the hill with glass fronts. One dressed in maroon working outside her pod waved to us.

The lighthouse keeper on his monthly inspection of the lighthouse lights caught us up on the path. We sat on a concrete bunker watching him at the one at Pillar Rock soaking up the brilliant sun and eating our lunch from Brodick’s bakery.

 
Soay sheep roam the island, horned and brown and they were by the beach on the way back. We narrowly missed treading on huge hairy caterpillars. Gannets were diving for fish constantly. We watched a kestrel hunting.

 There were few people around when we arrived but more had arrived. At the boathouse comfortably furnished with round tables made from electric cable wheels, we had a cup of tea paid for by donation. A visitor staying at the centre sat practising his guitar then started to sing some plaintive songs.

 The boat took us back to Lamlash along with the Lighthouse keeper who seemed to cover the miles really quickly.

 

 

It was hard riding up out of Lamlash and the traffic was very busy for Arran. A mountain bike track off road looked very attractive so we took it. We needed to push the tandem up the rough track quite a way but then we were able to ride- some up some down until we reached the top at a car park and there rejoined the road to arrive shortly after a steep descent into Brodick.

We sat on a bench hoping to see otters with the mainland clearly visible 15 miles away, especially the wind turbines near Glasgow.

We enjoyed a meal at Fiddlers. I had chicken stuffed with haggis and no prizes for guessing what Bob had. Despite there not being vegetable son the menu they provided me with plenty when I asked. We liked the ambience of the place or was it the bottle of wine we had with our dinner! We left before the live music though we would have liked to listen. We were scouring the shore for otters again.

Here is a link to Bob's Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRRypgjnboY

18-21 Sep 2014 Arran

Island 21 of our 100 Island Adventure

We set off for East Lothian after having the grandchildren for the day. Then it was a four hour drive and a night stay in a premier inn. We were looking forward to the usually tasty breakfast but supposedly freshly cooked it was dried out bacon, hard poached eggs and everything was cold, so we were disappointed. It was a huge TV screen though and there were good internet connections.

  18^th September we drove to Ardrossan, another 40 minutes on, down roads that were less easy to navigate when tired and in the dark. There was ample space in the ferry car park which we worked out at £9 to take us till Sunday when we return. In fact the nice man in the kiosk only charged us £7 when we came to pay after our trip, which we thought really good value.

 The boat was in but the barrier up to cars but if we had built the bike more quickly we could have been on it. As it was we waited till 11.05 the time we had a booking for, whiling away the minutes looking around a nearby Asda and ferry terminal which had a little cafe and places to sit.

 Our ferry left on time but half full of vehicles. The smell of greasy chips from the on board cafe permeated through the ship. The overcast day made for a dark sea but we were able to sit outside without getting cold, watching the rain coming down from clouds in the distance. It was a calm 1hour crossing.

 We arrived at Brodick and set off up a steep hill toward Lamlash- the recommended direction round the island- getting the hardest bit over first. There were forestry walks either side of the road. After a tough 3 miles we stopped at the Drift Inn in Lamlash for lunch. It was really a gastropub but Bob enjoyed his pint of Jarl which I thought too reminiscent of grapefruit and we had an introduction to the produce of Arran in a fisherman and hill walker platter each. We shared each and tried chicken terrine, oat-cakes, cheese with chives, unusual salad leaves, hot salmon, smoked salmon, mackerel pate, egg, homemade piccalilli and bread with herbs.

 We had a view of Holy Island we would visit Saturday but wished the cloud would clear and let the sun shine through soon. Blackberries were abundant, big and juicy all along our route. Fuchsia bushes and montbretia remind me of Irish lanes while the sea, or seaweed rather, smelled healthy and of holidays.

 The hills were hard work and we walked 2 extremely steep ones. Despite some winding roads, unlike on Mull, the roads were wide enough for 2 way traffic. We were overtaken by buses a lot and it was often the same one!

 At Lagg we stopped at the hotel there for refreshments and homemade fruit loaf. We had just passed people voting at the Primary School but strangely we never heard anyone discussing the referendum in pubs or within our earshot. Perhaps it was too sensitive an issue for general airing. We have seen posters, banners , occasionally cars decorated in supporting colours and even a yes and a no sign in the same field but we haven’t felt it lean heavily either way.

 Our B and B was in Blackwaterfoot in a bungalow in a residential road away from the sea. There was a note on the doorstep telling us to go to a neighbour as our host was at the golf course. A friendly dog stood at the open door.  We tucked the bike up in the garage and just as we were being shown to our room by the neighbour , our B and B lady arrived. She made us a welcome pot of tea and gave us homemade shortbread and coconut tarts. Ooh the calories!

We’d noticed a hotel with lovely views over to the mull of Kintyre on the way in and so we went there after a wash and brush up. Bob had a massive haddock and chips but I had lamb casserole with root veg which turned out to be mainly potatoes. There never seem to be many vegetables on offer when we come to Scotland which often disappoints me. Bob enjoyed his real ale and I felt obliged to try a pudding- banana bread and butter pudding was recommended by the waitress. They were dried bananas though, hard and disappointing yet again.

 By the beach we met a couple we’d travelled on the boat with. They were on bikes and both wore curious, toed rubber sandals making their feet quite Simian like. They said they were very comfortable but I am dubious.

 We had a restless night because the men in the other room came back after midnight from the golf club and continued to use the toilet noisily all through the night. Then they had breakfast at 6.45. It’s a good job we didn’t see them!

 At a more reasonable hour we were watching rabbits in the garden eating windfall pears. They must have been wild- tame hybrids as they were all shapes and sizes and different colours. The dog doesn’t bother them and they are so audacious they even hop over the owner’s foot. She does all she can to keep them out of the flowers- wire fencing was everywhere but they get in somehow.

 I enjoyed breakfast with haggis surprisingly from a tin.

 The referendum resulted in a “no”, which greatly relieved our host as she felt Scotland would be better as part of the UK. She had stayed up till 2am to hear the outcome.

 We left at 9.20 with a clearer sky then yesterday and a sparkling sea. There were still plenty of blackberries ( why don’t the locals pick them?) and cycling beside the sea was refreshing and happily flatter with just a couple of steep hills. There was plenty of bird life and a single seal. There was a great heron with very distinctive markings, plenty of wagtails, different duck species, swans with cygnets, red breasted merganser and diving gannets.

 We passed a school with what looked to have just 6 pupils in the playground. Then we stopped at the Lighthouse Restaurant, Pirnmill ( no sign of a lighthouse though)for a tea break and had a friendly chat with some other holidaymakers while a small brook bubbled beside us. Most of today had been peaceful with laid back drivers except for a delivery van which overtook us on a hill. If the other driver hadn’t stopped there would have been a crash.

At Lochranza we stopped to look at the castle for free. It’s a beautiful ruin with nooks and crannies to explore, right by the sea and it belongs to Historic Scotland.

There was a campsite not too far from the castle with deer around in little pockets and the cafe attached provided us with a soup lunch.

 A mist developed and the wind was cool so we were glad of the next hill which rose steeply for about 2 1/2 miles. There were deer on top of the mountain and young ones gambolling lower down.  Hot after the climb the descent gave us welcome cool.

 

 

 At Sannox we saw seals playing in the water waving flippers and also lounging on the rocks.

A few miles down the road from corrie we came to signs for Brodick Castle and being National Trust members we decided to visit. Parts of it were built in the 13^th,17^th and 19^th centuries respectively. It was home to the Duke of Hamilton who added to it using money from horse racing and gambling. It is a friendly and inviting castle not austere. Visitors are invited to play on the grand piano and informative guides tell them about the interesting artifacts like the dodo claret bottle. The dungeon, surprisingly upstairs, is the oldest section. We weren’t sure about the 80 odd stags heads that filled several walls.

The gardens were lovely in pinks and purples. The Bavarian summerhouse has an interior decorated with pinecones. Near the cafe is an impressive fuchsia hedge where we sat out with our tea. People said the homemade cakes were good.

As we left the highland cows were making a terrific din but we couldn’t see what was bothering them. We rode the tandem the way out for the cars in the hopes of seeing red squirrels but not a glimpse. The cycleway then went by the golf course towards the town.

 The guesthouse was up a lane but still the views from our window of the sea and mountains was fantastic, a proper panorama. We walked back into town later for our evening meal and decided on A Taste of Arran. This proved to be a good choice as Bob enjoyed his fish and chips while I had salmon, mash with leeks and a plate of other fresh vegetables including celeriac. Delicious!

 We had cycled 35 miles so we had a quiet night watching TV.

 

5-Dec-2014 Two Tree Island

 We drove to Essex Thursday afternoon arriving before dark at the Premier Inn on the outskirts of Southend- away from the shops and nightlife. There were no facilities for food due to refurbishment so we stocked up with bread and cheese for a supper later in the room. We were making a surprise visit to a relative of Bob’s back from the States whose 50^th birthday was to be the next day. We stayed for a glass of wine and catch up with his new family and then later than intended had our meagre supper in our room. No way were we having the complimentary bag of porridge and granola made instantly by pouring on boiling water. We found the other Premier Inn by Southend Airport and had a decent breakfast there.

South of Leigh on Sea station is 2 Tree Island. Its 640 acres consist of grassland, scrub, reed-bed, salt marsh and small lagoons. There are car parks and after driving over the bridge we were there and parked easily.

We set off on the nearest path along with plenty of dog walkers.

The island was named after 2 elm trees that blew down in the 1960s. It was reclaimed from the sea in the 18^th century when a seawall was built around the salt marsh. Unfortunately it was used as a rubbish tip from 1936 till the 1970s.

 As we walked in the opposite direction to Leigh we could see Hadleigh Castle. We thought we heard a woodpecker and later we found out the green variety are found here sometimes.

There was a strong breeze and the sun came out at last. It had rained a lot the day before so it was very muddy in places.

A huge container ship drifted slowly past which was a surprise and a shock, that something so large could appear so close.

 

 

There were red berries, flowering nettles, lichen covered bushes a few spindly trees and late blackberries. We saw birds but were unable to identify any unusual ones. They were probably wary of the many dogs around. We passed an area with rock or concrete slabs that had been designated as protected for snakes. There are lizards, slow worms and adders that won’t show themselves today. There were several bird hides.

Another sign warned of low flying aircraft- presumably model- but there were none of these either.

 

It took us 11/2hours to walk round the island’s 2 sections, the one nearer to Leigh being the muddier and slippy on inclines. It was lovely to have the sun on our faces despite the chill air but we feel there would be much more to see in spring or Summer.

 

We found a parking space in Leigh and explored the shops before a quick lunch and finding our way to Eastbourne for a family visit before Christmas.

 

2nd June 2014 InnerFarne

Island 14 of our 100 Island adventure

We left for Seahouses, Northumberland, which turned out to be a good place for fish and chips and not much else. There was a good choice of boat trips though. Not being much of a sailor and usually preferring to be on dry land I felt really apprehensive when the wind started to whip up. We chose the 12.15 boat to the Farne Islands and a landing on Inner Farne. The trip left on catamaran, Serenity.

 

The Farne Islands are a scattering of rocky outcrops within 4 ½ miles off the mainland and owned by the National Trust. They form a nature reserve attracting many nesting seabirds.

 

The boat took us out fairly quickly with the captain giving us a running commentary on the wildlife. We drew up close to Staple Island covered in guillemots. The smell was awful but what a spectacle! There were puffins flying by with sand eels hanging from their beaks.

 

On Longstone Island is a lighthouse and small cottage associated with Grace Darling, famous for rescuing shipwrecked sailors with her father in a fishing cobble in 1838.

Another island nearby had sunbathing seals and we were brought close for photo shoots.

 

Arriving at Inner Farne we were helped onto the tiny jetty by a young National trust representative who welcomed us. Then all hell let loose. As we walked up onto the island we were surrounded and mobbed by arctic terns, noisily pecking at our hats – it’s well advised to wear one. Red seemed to be the worst colour to wear as they attracted more hostility in our group at least. There were a few bloodied visitors, an ear and a nose but there were few places to escape the frenzies. 

 

The chapel was peaceful with a beautiful stained glass window. On top of the remains of an earlier building from the 7^th century it was built in 1370 and later renovated in 1884.  The Farne Islands in the 7^th century were home to St. Aiden and then St. Cuthbert who later became Bishop of Lindisfarne. Cuthbert introduced special laws in 676 protecting the eider ducks and other nesting seabirds- first of its kind.

From 1255 there was a monastic cell of mostly 2 but up to 6 monks on Little Farne but in 1536 Henry V111 dissolved it!

We only stayed inside for a little while as it seemed wrong to hog the limited indoor space.

 

Head down, we walked the island up to its edges where it seemed every useable space was being utilised for nesting birds. Terns left their precious eggs to harass the visitors. Only the placid eider duck sat close to the path intent on its brood in the nest and seemingly oblivious to people.

 

Puffins were in large groups, colourful and comical. Across the grass burrows were dug like rabbit warrens. Occasionally a puffin stood at the entrance only to be bullied by gulls. We saw one pulled out by marauding gulls intent on stealing their chicks or hard earned sand eels. There are about 37,000 puffin pairs.

 

There are no food facilities on the island and finding a safe spot for a picnic at this time of year is difficult. Bob wouldn’t eat his sandwich and I ate mine a nibble at a time, keeping it hidden from the gulls. If poo didn’t drop on it from above, even a waddling duck seemed intent on stealing a meal off you. Despite this it was a spectacle not to be missed especially the endearing puffins.

 

The National Trust wardens live on the island during the breeding season in Prior Castell’s tower built in 1500 and thought to mark the site of Cuthbert’s cell. Marking all the nests are stones from the beach with numbers painted on them.

 

After an hour it was time to leave and the weather looked set to change. As we came into Seahouses the rain came and we were glad to be on the shore as visibility was worsening.

This was a fantastic trip but we were lucky with the weather!

We drove home getting back in time for Morris Dancing Practice.

 

1st June 2014 Cramond

Island 13 of our 100 Island adventure

 

This was Sunday and we had a quick continental breakfast and left for uninhabited Cramond in the estuary of the river Almond. We got there before it was officially deemed safe to cross the causeway but it was fine. We went at 9am instead of 20 past. The causeway is another war-time cast-off with concrete pylons on one side looking very like dragons teeth, constructed as a submarine defence boom during World War 2.

 

We had 4 hours before high tide when several feet of water cover the concrete path. People stranded and who called the life boats out are usually named and shamed in the local papers. The speed the tide comes in often traps the unwary.

 

It was about ¾ of a mile and apart from a jogger we were the first to cross this morning. Smoke was rising on the beach from a portable barbeque and camper’s breakfast. Someone pushing a barrow with a large water container on to the causeway said there were 50 party- goers with tents at the top end of the island.

 

On top of the rocks at the end of the causeway is an artillery building though it could have been as old as the ruined farmhouse further in on the island.

There were sycamore trees and land used maybe for sheep grazing. Birds sang in the trees and broom grew by the path.

 

As the path became indistinct we followed boot tracks and met a group of individuals pushing trolley suitcases, incongruous with the overgrown terrain. As we got nearer the top end we heard music. It came from an old wartime concrete building with blacked out windows and a portable generator providing power. We think it was a punk party though they all seemed ordinary in dress- no safety pin or spiky hair- cut in sight. All around were signs of a boozy time with bottles smashed to smithereens. This was worrying as we saw numerous dogs coming over as we left. There were good views around and we watched heron and eider ducks as we walked back.

 

Being a sunny day many more people were crossing and we left after one hour, pleased to have seen it but it was a shame about the rubbish. As we had passed the barbeque spot on the beach flames were engulfing the whole thing. The picnickers had just left it- on the rocks out of the reach of children but a hazard still nonetheless.

 

It was another night at the Premier Inn.

 

Here is Bob's video of the day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4IhNwuNxpk

 

31st may 2014 Inchcolm

We arrived at Queensferry with 20 minutes to spare- a 2oclock boat departure- but we couldn’t find a parking space. The streets are narrow with old world shops and a 20 mile an hour speed limit. We decided to park at Dalmeny Station and then took the pretty path down, under the Firth of Forth Rail Bridge to the estuary.

We bought tickets that included the £5 landing charge for Inchcolm. One concession and one adult came to £77(32 and 45). We sat atop the Maid of Forth and it took about an hour to do the 5 miles. I managed to see 2 puffins a species that nest in the area.

We landed and herring gulls were everywhere even on the green paths obviously mowed for visitors.

 A wedding party, kilts, bagpipes and all, were leaving on the Maid, after a ceremony at the ruined abbey. We wondered if they would all fit on the boat as it looked full before they all got on to the sound of bagpipes.

 

We had a good hour and a half to spend exploring the island with its wonderful ruin complete with tower and underground rooms. The warming room with its rounded ceiling had great acoustics and I managed a stanza or two of the Halleluiah from Handel’s Messiah before someone else came within earshot.

 

Beyond the abbey, up and besides the grassy paths, were nesting gulls. The noise they made was deafening and threatening. We covered up with coats and hoods. Occasionally a cluster of brown/grey speckled large eggs were abandoned beside the paths as an adult screeched over our heads. Sometimes a fluffy chick was woefully waiting to be fed right by our feet. We hurried on, marvelling at the spectacle but mindful that we were causing anxiety.

 

We arrived back at the abbey unscathed and set off towards the top of the island with its array of wartime defences. There was a lot of concrete. We walked down a long tunnel, probably used for transporting shells to the guns, and came out at a deep puddle with stepping stones. Unfortunately once up from here we were back with the herring gulls. Bob was quicker up the bank than me and as he emerged he was bombed by an irate parent bird, covering his blue kagool with huge quantities of guano.

 

We turned back to wait for the boat in the sun. I wasn’t keen on the loos on the island which, though clean, had no running water only alcoholic gel for hands.

 

On the way back to shore we saw 4 seals up close on a shipping channel buoy. The captain slowed the boat as we went by.

It had been a great trip and it was hard walking back under the bridge up the steep steps towards the car.

We stayed overnight in a nearby Premier Inn and ate in the evening at The Hawes Inn, Queensferry because it had real ale.

 

Here is bobs video of the day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyvDVSrt4M8

 

22-Jul-2014 Lismore

Arriving at Oban near to 12 we parked the car in an unlimited, free space on the road that led to the ruined castle. We then built the bike and cycled back to the ferry port to buy tickets for Lismore. Eating at Weatherspoons we could keep an eye on the bike and enjoy some real ale and steaks for under £8, it being Steak Day. We had 50 minutes before the next ferry.

It was more of a walk than expected to Lismore ferry’s departure point and when the boat arrived it looked rather small! How would they squeeze more than 2 cars on as well as bikes and people? The drivers had to reverse on. An older gentleman handed over his car keys to a dock official, as the chances of his manoeuvre going wrong were quite high. A small lorry with a mattress, boxes of fruit, drink and long planks of wood, obviously a regular run, squeezed on. Another car and a people carrier used up all available space except for passengers legs when they sat on the patio chairs on the deck with knees against the dirty cars. Bored children were tooting horns and climbing in and out of the vehicles. An elderly lady from Battle near Hastings had bought the £6 return journey for the sea trip only, which lasts 50 minutes just one way. It was best to stand and watch the beautiful scenery pass by hoping for seals and dolphins in the calm sea. If it had rained there was some covered seating but then no views.

 

We all disembarked, in considerable heat, except for the lady from Sussex who had the boat almost to herself for the journey back. Bob and I now had 3 hours to ride the island as far as the roads would take us. We went left from the ferry with some hills but not so steep, until the road petered out. The views were wonderful and next to the road were clear streams and wildflowers particularly white astilbe. Unlike Ulva these were proper tarmac roads. Lismore is 10 miles long by 1 mile across with about 150 inhabitants.

 

 The opposite direction took us past the Heritage Centre with a cafe, earmarked for later and a little shop with a post office. This direction seemed windier especially when we reached the other ferry point- the road terminus. A ferry was coming in and there were a few cars here hopefully not  trying to get on the boat which was smaller we thought than the one we came over on being for passengers only. This ferry takes a mere 10 minutes to cross. There were more cyclists than any other sort of passenger and we could see why as on a day like today it was glorious cycling. The one draw- back for us however was the lack of facilities. Although the cafe was open during the days its hours didn’t seem to coincide well with the arrivals and departures of the ferries. We spoke to one of our ferry co-passengers ( the island was small enough to keep bumping into each other) who said they thought the cafe might be closed and it was only just after 4.

 

With tongues hanging out we rode as fast as we were able to the Heritage Centre which was indeed closed. Someone was sweeping up at the cafe but people sat at the tables outside. I asked if they were still open and we were asked what we would like. Full of a sense of bonhomie we relaxed and waited for our sandwiches and tea. They were counting up the money and later the sweeper upper told me they actually closed at 4. I couldn’t stress to them how grateful we were. After lovely sandwiches I offered to pay and was horrified when it came to several pounds more than £20.When I questioned the amount the girl said they put a surcharge on after hours. Another couple paid £10 for a tea and cake. They had taken care not to say that they were either closed or that everything cost more after 4 when I ordered. Nowhere did a sign say when the cafe closed. We felt ripped off and the initial feel good factor completely disappeared. Apparently the cafe wasn’t open till 10.30 well after the first ferry arrival which didn’t make sense either.

By contrast the man in the shop nearby couldn’t have been nicer!

 

The next and last ferry arrived just after 6. We thought Lismore a beautiful island though there wasn’t a lot to do except roaming and the beach.

The boat arrived and before we could embark the ferrymen were cleaning the decks of sheep manure that fell from the trailer while they were aboard. The lorry empty from delivering the mattress etcetera was going back to Oban. A friendly dog kept children entertained by expecting a stick to be thrown for him to chase. It was an uneventful ferry back arriving at the car around 7 pm.

20-Jul-2014 Ulva

The car park for the Ulva ferry was full---- of lounging highland cattle but there was a little space left for our Corsa. We built the tandem and went to the quay. The ferryman comes when he is summoned by the red square which has to be moved manually across a board. It was an unusually shaped small craft with room for bikes but he said that it wouldn’t be a suitable surface for us to cycle and “would be more relaxing to walk”. He was right and we were glad as it was hard enough to walk through the under or overgrowth. Bracken had obscured a lot of the paths and Bob seriously regretted wearing shorts because of the brambles.

After a mere minute in the boat we reached the shore and it cost £6 return each which we paid in the bake-house which oozed lovely bread baking smells. The 2 girls, daughters of the ferryman, ran the place admirably. The lunches had got larger daily and we had a massive bowl of tasty squash soup with homemade bread and a giant cheese roll. The cakes looked fit for a cookery book especially the bramble with huge blackberries on the top of pink icing.

 Next door, hundred yards north of the main slipway, is a small museum- Sheila’s thatched cottage which depicts how people lived on the island in 1900s.  An effigy of Sheila was quite alarming as you went in through the door. Sheila was noted for her method of stoking her fire. A long tree branch extended from her box bed to the grate and washing was draped over it. As the branch burnt she pushed it further in to the fire and the thatched cottage still stands!  Sheila worked as a dairy maid at Ulva House and also collected winkles for extra income. The cottage has 2 rooms one for the family and the other for animals. During the 19^th century there were 700 inhabitants but now there are less than 30. There are ruins of settlements all over Ulva. There are signposts near the ferry for a woodland and coastal walk, up to Livingstone’s cottage and others that takes you clockwise or anticlockwise lasting anything from 2 to 3 hours to 5 hours or more.  We didn’t know which to take and found them hard to follow. We started on the church circular then deviated onto a woodland and shoreline walk predicted to take three and a half hours. My sense of direction was quickly thrown and Bob bemoaned his lack of compass. Since coming home I have seen that a 5 hour walk takes you via a bridge onto Gometra but on reading the blog it becomes 11 miles, so too far if you go over for only part of the day. We thought there was a causeway only. People all walk at different rates and it would have been better to say how many miles and what sort of terrain, we feel. We did a lot of scrambling and diving into thick bracken with only a vague sense of the path. We made it back OK but we worried about a family with small children that we had passed half way round. At 3 we were back in the ferryboat – just us and the ferryman though there were still quite a lot of people eating at the boathouse cafe. They did a good trade in seafood, and oysters were their speciality. We suspect most people don’t go walking.

 

19-Jul-2014 Erraid

We wanted to go for a ride to another island- Tidal Erraid which is only 1 mile square and reputed as being one of the driest and sunniest places on west coast of Scotland.

We hoped to be back at Fionnphort before the rain promised for 4 clock and we set off past the free car park on a single track road through rocky outcrops bordered by cotton grass. At the bottom of the hill we came to a farm with a camp site. Everywhere roamed the lovely black faced sheep we’ve been seeing since this part of Mull. They looked clean enough to take inside. The lanes wind and climb quite a lot without much vegetation to obscure views. It looks like there may have been iris earlier though judging by the leaves left.

 Erraid was the site for a signal station for the lighthouses on Dubh Artah and Sherryvore built by Stevenson and his son, Robert Louis based some of his” Kidnapped “story on this island as he was familiar with it. The lighthouse- keepers’ cottages now house followers of the Findhorn foundation.

   

After walking up a few hills we came to a dead end at a farm gate where we passed through until at the farmhouse we had to walk down a very stony steep track of small boulders. Bob pushed the bike down and I was very aware that we had to push the bike back up again later. In the farmyard somewhere a dog barked and I felt as if we were trespassing even though Bob assured me we weren’t. Eventually we came to a derelict boat where Bob tucked the bike out of sight and we continued without its encumbrance towards the beach. After a bit we came out at a causeway, a wide stretch of sand and we followed the hoof marks of sheep and cows. A herd were scattered across the extent of sand between Mull and Erraig, with a huge bull amongst them. On the ride over, from a distance the cattle had looked like seals. The size of the beasts and the fact that mothers were with their calves made me more than a little wary. There was nowhere to run only rock but as we rounded a bend we were able to climb off the sand and onto a grassy bank. We were on Erraid.

 

 

In my little book of walks around Mull it said to head for the white cottage with a statue looking seawards on our right. We sank into the sand and boggy bits. Close to you could see the statue was made roughly from bits of driftwood like a downgrade of the Angel of the North looking out to sea.

The island is inhabited mainly by people from the Findhorn Foundation and we passed their cottages later on our left and their walled vegetable plots. The path went through a gate, up and left towards the white gate of the cottages, passing buildings being renovated. A steep climb on the right before the white gate took us to a quarry with plenty of pink granite around and people have been building cairns. Past a ruined building we turned left up a rocky and peaty path until we reached stone steps on the right. We climbed up to the old observation tower, not locked but bolted and rusted up. There was a good view but cloud was closing in. We had to move if we didn’t want to get wet. We retraced our steps back to the cows in the causeway where it started to rain 45 minutes early! The bike was worse to push up the rocky hill in the rain but at least we rode up all the road hills on the 3 miles back.

19-Jul-2014 Staffa

We turned up unsure of the time for the Staffa boat, like several other people. The posters were ambiguous. Anyway despite not having booked in advance there was plenty of room on board the little boat that left at 9.30 on Saturday. Storms had been raging over many parts of the UK and the clouds looked a bit ominous today. I did feel anxious about the trip as we were further out from the shore and out in the middle of the 35 minute ride it became quite choppy. Seals watched us from a rock as we passed Ulva. Drawing closer to Staffa we saw the impressive basalt columns that gave way to the dark hole of Fingal’s Cave. The next anxious moment came as we drew up to the rocks and saw rickety steps leading up to the top of the cliff and another walkway just as flimsy looking passing round the side over rocks to the cave. An insubstantial handrail was all that would save one from falling into the sea at some points. We were all put off the boat. One large elderly lady sat for the whole hour waiting for the boat’s return because she daren’t move. Curiosity ruled over fear and we followed in crocodile along the edge of the hexagonal basalt columns. We have been to the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland and legend has it that the giant’s bag of rocks burst and scattered, the largest being Staffa. The similarity between the two places geologically is notable.

 

It was difficult in the cave because people were coming in and going out, trying not to let go of the one handrail as they walked over the uneven rocks. A one way system would have felt safer. I lost Bob who had come over funny and gone out of the cave unbeknown to me and most untypical of him. I wanted to try out the acoustics but decided people might not appreciate my attempts at yodelling. I did manage to get some movie of the inside with its cathedral like columns. Probably to appreciate this at its best you need to be alone. Two girls had dived in the water here though how they managed this I’m not sure as I had left the cave by then. They arrived back at the boat soaking wet. They said the water wasn’t too cold and they could have stayed in for at least 15 minutes without a wet suit.

 

We went up the steps to the top of the cliff where you might see Puffins. On the cliffs were a few pairs of black guillemots distinctive with their white egg shaped wing bars. We saw puffins over the water but not at the nesting site. Someone said they did though. Midges were kept at bay by the Avon skin so soft dry oil we had left from doing Lands End to john o Groats in 2005! I could see a cloud of midges over Bob’s head but they weren’t bothering him.

 

The boat trip back was smoother and we dropped people off for Iona getting back by 12.20 ourselves for a decent portion of soup and some bacon butties at the pub forsaking beer for tea as we wanted to go for a ride later

18-Jul-2014 Iona

We left Craignure in plenty of time for the ferry to Iona as it was estimated to take an hour to reach Fionnphort. We hadn’t reckoned on stopping on route for cars coming in the opposite direction as often as we did. Also we were caught up by a lot of vehicles obviously used to the road and the rule in Mull is that you go into a passing place to let faster others go by. The road winds and seemed interminable. We were quite stressed by the time we reached Fionnphort and after parking the car in the free car park we managed to get on the ferry just before the doors were closed for a 10.30 sailing. It had taken at least half an hour longer than expected.

 It was a half mile ferry trip and the sun shone on Iona. We have heard a lot of people say there is a special atmosphere on Iona which could be due to it being an established holy site from the time of St Columba. The original wattle and daub 6^th century monastery has long gone but St Oran’s chapel built by Queen Margaret in 1080 still survives. A strong religious community is still present at the restored 13^th century Abbey, consisting of men and women from all walks of life who come together to pray for justice and peace. It was founded in 1938 by George Macleod a minister and visionary.

We went inside the little chapel and I left a request for a prayer for a sick relative pinned to the cross along with several others. Many ancient kings are said to be buried here but there are some graves dating around the 1940s we noticed. Standing up against the wall, an exhibition of stone sarcophagus lids are decorated with Celtic carvings.

 We had tea and coffee in the little Heritage centre cafe on our way out to the northern point deciding to come back for lunch on our way to the other end of Iona. We passed a school with bike parking for 10 and, if that is the number of students, they had a small garden allotment each to tend.

From fields near -by we heard a very loud noise between quacking and croaking but we couldn’t see anything among the wild flowers and grasses. It varied in volume as if it was moving around. On the way back we asked a local in his garden what it was and he said they were male corncrakes- only 3 or 4 maybe. Unusually for females corncrakes are quiet, he said. We later read on an information board at the southern end, that there are about 30 corncrakes on Iona, introduced to help with their conservation. The fields have areas left for natural wild flowers and grasses to grow. We didn’t see one unfortunately as they are quite elusive. They are from the rail family like coots and moorhens and nest twice a year, July being one of the times.

The beach further down was beautiful and I really wanted to put my feet in the clear water but I knew it would be uncomfortable later if I got sand between my toes- we had to walk at least 7 miles. The sand is white and Bob picked up some small smooth marble pieces.  Looking back we could see the hill of Dun, the highest point on Iona at 100 metres. We walked down to a lesser hill near the end and had good views of Mull and other of the Hebrides.

 It was almost a retracing of our steps back and quite meagre fare from the cafe surprisingly. The soup was nice but only a cup full and rolls we had were tiny. Lucky we had eaten a hearty breakfast!

The longer part of the walk took us west through a golf course with no golfers and then south through dunes and up a rocky channel that looked like rivers sometime run down but it only had damp patches today. The sun was full on our left side for several miles and we’d forgotten the sun block. With nothing to protect except a coat and it was too hot for that I burnt where I don’t usually uncover, which consequentially gave me some uncomfortable nights.

  We arrived at a small reservoir. From there the path was dubious and so again we had to retrace our steps. There was quite a lot of commotion coming from a defunct inspection chamber connected with the reservoir. A cow had fallen through the plastic roof and was frantically trying to jump back out. The hole didn’t look big enough for it to have gone through and just the head was poking out. The farmer and his children were waiting for help to arrive. First a tractor and then we were passed on the way down by someone who would look at home tossing the caber and was used to extracting cows from similar situations. We heard the mooing for some time and the cars people arrived in had to be parked on the turf with the sea crashing under the cliff. The golf course was be-speckled with cow pats and there were no marked paths or roads. Later we saw a car being driven across the green and the driver looked rather small. The driver got out, a boy of 11 or 12 and changed places with his mum before the road. I suppose a golfing green with the beach to one side and not too many people about seems a good place to practise driving skills, though not good for the car’s suspension.

 At the pub we saw there was to be a ceilidh with pipers and that a boat would take people over at 7.30 and would bring them back at midnight. We hoped we might manage to stay awake for it.

We had walked nearly 8 miles surprisingly and so we were glad to take the ferry back to Fionnphort at 3.30. The wind had got up through the day but despite the rippling waves gannets were diving for fish.

17-Jul-2015 to 22-Jul-2015 Mull

We left home before 8 am Thursday 17^th July and with us taking turns driving we arrived earlier than expected. Despite being booked on the 6 pm ferry from Oban to Mull, we were allowed to catch one at 4pm with minutes to spare. It took 45 minutes and with wonderful views and calm water, it was a pleasant journey. Arriving at Craignure early we decided to eat at the local pub before going to the B and B. It didn’t have a lot of choice but nevertheless the venison mince and tatties were quite tasty.

Our room had a gorgeous sea view and even Ben Nevis was pointed out to us. Quickly putting the bike together we took the tandem for a short run, to ease creaking joints from the long journey, on the single track roads that mostly cover Mull. It wasn’t too hilly and the weather was warm but we decided to turn round after the 2^nd lake and Mussel Farm because from there on the landscape was full of scenery and nothing else for miles. After turning Bob started to attract flies and midges to his yellow coat and as soon as we stopped pedalling he was covered. Sitting behind him I didn’t get them bothering me! We slept fine.

 Friday 18^th at breakfast our host told us of the Malaysian airliner that was brought down by Russian terrorists which was a very sad and gloomy start to the day. Today we are going to Iona which is the next post. Once back at Fionnphort we stopped at the pub for a drink and then visited, just by the car park, someone’s garage that has a permanent book sale on behalf of the lifeboats at 50p a book. It was a good selection and we bought several.

We ate at the pub in the restaurant section where you turn up at 6 pm and then wait to be called to your table. Arriving only 10 minutes later we had a wait of 40 minutes. It had an ambience and though expensive we found it a tasty relaxing meal.

 Again we had lovely views from our Band B window with hills in front and sea to the side. Once we’d had a bath we really didn’t think we could muster up enough energy to dance till midnight. Pity it wasn’t on Mull then we could have left the ceilidh when we were ready and not have to wait on water transport.

 Saturday we woke after a good night’s sleep despite the sore bits from the sun. Breakfast was really good and very pretty with flowers decorating the plates. I don’t usually have black pudding but this was light and very tasty. As we ate, several free roaming highland cattle were leaning over the wall eating flowers from the garden. Our landlady said they are a nightmare and chased them off with a stick. To us they looked charming if a bit oversized to argue with and the long horns certainly could do some damage.

This morning we are going to Staffa, and then in the afternoon to Erraid. We decided to try the Argyle Arms at Bunessan for  dinner which was very quick service and we thought it was quite good. It took a while to drive the winding single track though it was only about 7 miles.

 

Sunday 20th July

 We were the only ones at breakfast again and I couldn’t understand this as it was one of the best we have had. Someone apparently left early in the morning without saying they were off and we hoped they had paid. We left by 9 with low cloud resting over Iona. It was 2 hours driving on scary roads and not being the driver I spotted what I thought was a white tailed eagle- hanging down legs and, obviously, a white tail. Someone said they think the sheep have attitude here and we agree. They won’t budge and cars have to go round them often as not and the birds seem to” play chicken” too. I’ve braked several times for wagtails and Bob marginally avoided hitting some ducks. We felt quite jaded by the time we reached Ulva ferry.
 

After visiting Ulva I started to drive the winding, hilly roads to Dervaig with good intentions but I wimped out when I needed to back down the road for a caravan. My nerves just aren’t up to it!

We arrived at our B and B overlooking an inlet to the sea. From our bedroom window was an absolutely fantastic view of the hills and shore line. As it turned out this was the location of the otter footage on spring watch this year. Binoculars were kindly provided and I was really hopeful in the morning when the land lady said she had just seen the otter.

We ate that night in the Bellachroy Hotel reputed to be the oldest on Mull. From its exterior it didn’t look at all smart but the service and quality of the food was excellent. It was expensive and our roast beef was very rare but we enjoyed it and the company of the couple from Hull on the next table who come for the wildlife. We decided that we are too impatient to see much and we don’t sit long enough so I made a vow that I would make a real effort to see the otter.

 

Monday 21st July

 

We had been rather hot at night and breakfast was early at 8 which suited us. Catherine made us porridge with water though we passed on salt. Today we wanted to cycle to Salen and thought it would take most of the day even though it was only 12 miles there. We visited the shop in Dervaig, where I managed to find some sunscreen. This being the only strong one available and for children, turned us blue. Still it was better than getting even more burnt.

 It was a lovely road with hardly any traffic. It took us 1 and a half hours with some climbing. We first took a look at Salen Pier but it was fenced off and marked private. There was renovation of some kind going on. We stopped for a drink and bought a takeout baguette each at the Coffee Pot cafe, devouring them later on a seat looking across the water at the small Aros castle ruin. The bread was still warm!  Here we watched greylag geese families and 5 herons sitting close together  -unusual.

We retraced our route instead of going on the cycle route through the forest as originally planned. It was too nice a day to be in the trees, and forests are where the insects lurk. The road was even quieter going back. There were huge dust clouds from the timber lorries on the makeshift route for them, cut into the side of the hill to our left. They were up and down while we rode to Salen and we are really glad they were kept off the single track road we were on. Apparently Catherine’s brother who lives in the next house along the shore, cuts the timber here. We passed piles of the telegraph pole sized trunks with rabbits hopping between. It looked as if a gentle push with a finger could bring the whole lot down.

 

We arrived back at 2pm and thought this a good time to look out for otters. Catherine told us a good place to sit over the other side of the inlet. She thought they had moved further down at the bottom of her brother’s property and although he wouldn’t mind us going across his land she thought it difficult for walking. The land was boggy but scattered with stones which meant if we were careful we wouldn’t get wet. A rocky outcrop gave us a good viewing point out across the water. We had been lent 2 good pairs of binoculars. James Stuart from the Spring Watch programme had stayed in the B and B and despite Catherine directing him to where she was seeing the otter he took several weeks to get any film himself. They are very elusive. We became very excited when we saw large shapes moving through the water but disappointed when we realised they were large fish. These were mullet and there were plenty. Bob sat reading as I strained to see but I am sure that early morning or evening would have been a better time. We gave up eventually as the tide was coming in and the boggy land was even boggier and difficult to traverse.

 

We decided to drive to Tobermory for our evening meal. The road was breathtaking and even though Bob was driving I couldn’t look too much at the view down in the valley. We ate at a pub next to the Marine Exhibition that buzzed with customers and then I drove back by way of Salen that even had some 2 way roads being much kinder to the nerves.

 

Tuesday 22nd July

 

We had an early breakfast- 7.30 so I could look out for the otters and then drive at a leisurely pace back to Craignure.  Because I had been wimping a lot over the roads and I thought how good the Dervaig route via Salen seemed to be, I confidently set off driving. We were disappointed that we never saw one glimpse of the otters but still rated it the best place if not the best breakfast. It was quiet until we caught up a huge road cleaning lorry, sweeping grit from the road after some maintenance. Then we stopped and started to avoid overheating as it was such a snail’s pace and there was no way to get past. After several miles he let me go. From Salen apart from road-works it was 2 ways and free running.

 

We reached Craignure in plenty of time for the ferry. The lovely blue skies had now clouded over and the calm sea became slate grey. As the boat neared Oban the sea looked the texture and colour of opal with similar more pastel shades reflected in the more distant mountains. Arriving at Oban near to 12 we parked the car in an unlimited, free space on the road that led to the ruined castle. We then built the bike and cycled back to the ferry port to buy tickets for Lismore. Eating at Weatherspoons we could keep an eye on the bike and enjoy some real ale and steaks for under £8, it being Steak Day. We had 50 minutes before the next ferry...

 

Our B and B was 3 miles outside of Oban out in the sticks up winding hill roads. It was in a beautiful hill situation but no views of the sea. A new build, the architect had made a few design errors. Large window doors opened on to a patio. There was a steep drop in front of the patio making the B and B not really suitable for families. It is very well suited for disabled guests though as the doors are huge and there’s a lovely wet room. We never discovered why breakfast was brought outside the building rather than through a connecting door. It didn’t compromise our food but it was just odd.

 

Overall we thought we were lucky with our Band Bs this break. After leaving and finding the ferry to Kerrera, a tiny island with a 16^th century ruined castle, doesn’t leave until 10.30, we decided to start home rather than wait over an hour. We will have to go to Oban for more ferries in the next few years.

So with 20 islands completed already we are well on target for a hundred over 5 years. It was a good journey back despite the Commonwealth Games opening ceremony starting this evening in Glasgow. The temperature reached 29 degrees. Thank goodness for air-conditioning!