Tuesday, March 10, 2015

22-Jul-2014 Lismore


Arriving at Oban near to 12 we parked the car in an unlimited, free space on the road that led to the ruined castle. We then built the bike and cycled back to the ferry port to buy tickets for Lismore. Eating at Weatherspoons we could keep an eye on the bike and enjoy some real ale and steaks for under £8, it being Steak Day. We had 50 minutes before the next ferry.

It was more of a walk than expected to Lismore ferry’s departure point and when the boat arrived it looked rather small! How would they squeeze more than 2 cars on as well as bikes and people? The drivers had to reverse on. An older gentleman handed over his car keys to a dock official, as the chances of his manoeuvre going wrong were quite high. A small lorry with a mattress, boxes of fruit, drink and long planks of wood, obviously a regular run, squeezed on. Another car and a people carrier used up all available space except for passengers legs when they sat on the patio chairs on the deck with knees against the dirty cars. Bored children were tooting horns and climbing in and out of the vehicles. An elderly lady from Battle near Hastings had bought the £6 return journey for the sea trip only, which lasts 50 minutes just one way. It was best to stand and watch the beautiful scenery pass by hoping for seals and dolphins in the calm sea. If it had rained there was some covered seating but then no views.

 


We all disembarked, in considerable heat, except for the lady from Sussex who had the boat almost to herself for the journey back. Bob and I now had 3 hours to ride the island as far as the roads would take us. We went left from the ferry with some hills but not so steep, until the road petered out. The views were wonderful and next to the road were clear streams and wildflowers particularly white astilbe. Unlike Ulva these were proper tarmac roads. Lismore is 10 miles long by 1 mile across with about 150 inhabitants.

 

 The opposite direction took us past the Heritage Centre with a cafe, earmarked for later and a little shop with a post office. This direction seemed windier especially when we reached the other ferry point- the road terminus. A ferry was coming in and there were a few cars here hopefully not  trying to get on the boat which was smaller we thought than the one we came over on being for passengers only. This ferry takes a mere 10 minutes to cross. There were more cyclists than any other sort of passenger and we could see why as on a day like today it was glorious cycling. The one draw- back for us however was the lack of facilities. Although the cafe was open during the days its hours didn’t seem to coincide well with the arrivals and departures of the ferries. We spoke to one of our ferry co-passengers ( the island was small enough to keep bumping into each other) who said they thought the cafe might be closed and it was only just after 4.

 

With tongues hanging out we rode as fast as we were able to the Heritage Centre which was indeed closed. Someone was sweeping up at the cafe but people sat at the tables outside. I asked if they were still open and we were asked what we would like. Full of a sense of bonhomie we relaxed and waited for our sandwiches and tea. They were counting up the money and later the sweeper upper told me they actually closed at 4. I couldn’t stress to them how grateful we were. After lovely sandwiches I offered to pay and was horrified when it came to several pounds more than £20.When I questioned the amount the girl said they put a surcharge on after hours. Another couple paid £10 for a tea and cake. They had taken care not to say that they were either closed or that everything cost more after 4 when I ordered. Nowhere did a sign say when the cafe closed. We felt ripped off and the initial feel good factor completely disappeared. Apparently the cafe wasn’t open till 10.30 well after the first ferry arrival which didn’t make sense either.

By contrast the man in the shop nearby couldn’t have been nicer!

 

The next and last ferry arrived just after 6. We thought Lismore a beautiful island though there wasn’t a lot to do except roaming and the beach.

The boat arrived and before we could embark the ferrymen were cleaning the decks of sheep manure that fell from the trailer while they were aboard. The lorry empty from delivering the mattress etcetera was going back to Oban. A friendly dog kept children entertained by expecting a stick to be thrown for him to chase. It was an uneventful ferry back arriving at the car around 7 pm.

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