17-Jul-2015 to 22-Jul-2015 Mull

We left home before 8 am Thursday 17^th July and with us taking turns driving we arrived earlier than expected. Despite being booked on the 6 pm ferry from Oban to Mull, we were allowed to catch one at 4pm with minutes to spare. It took 45 minutes and with wonderful views and calm water, it was a pleasant journey. Arriving at Craignure early we decided to eat at the local pub before going to the B and B. It didn’t have a lot of choice but nevertheless the venison mince and tatties were quite tasty.

Our room had a gorgeous sea view and even Ben Nevis was pointed out to us. Quickly putting the bike together we took the tandem for a short run, to ease creaking joints from the long journey, on the single track roads that mostly cover Mull. It wasn’t too hilly and the weather was warm but we decided to turn round after the 2^nd lake and Mussel Farm because from there on the landscape was full of scenery and nothing else for miles. After turning Bob started to attract flies and midges to his yellow coat and as soon as we stopped pedalling he was covered. Sitting behind him I didn’t get them bothering me! We slept fine.

 Friday 18^th at breakfast our host told us of the Malaysian airliner that was brought down by Russian terrorists which was a very sad and gloomy start to the day. Today we are going to Iona which is the next post. Once back at Fionnphort we stopped at the pub for a drink and then visited, just by the car park, someone’s garage that has a permanent book sale on behalf of the lifeboats at 50p a book. It was a good selection and we bought several.

We ate at the pub in the restaurant section where you turn up at 6 pm and then wait to be called to your table. Arriving only 10 minutes later we had a wait of 40 minutes. It had an ambience and though expensive we found it a tasty relaxing meal.

 Again we had lovely views from our Band B window with hills in front and sea to the side. Once we’d had a bath we really didn’t think we could muster up enough energy to dance till midnight. Pity it wasn’t on Mull then we could have left the ceilidh when we were ready and not have to wait on water transport.

 Saturday we woke after a good night’s sleep despite the sore bits from the sun. Breakfast was really good and very pretty with flowers decorating the plates. I don’t usually have black pudding but this was light and very tasty. As we ate, several free roaming highland cattle were leaning over the wall eating flowers from the garden. Our landlady said they are a nightmare and chased them off with a stick. To us they looked charming if a bit oversized to argue with and the long horns certainly could do some damage.

This morning we are going to Staffa, and then in the afternoon to Erraid. We decided to try the Argyle Arms at Bunessan for  dinner which was very quick service and we thought it was quite good. It took a while to drive the winding single track though it was only about 7 miles.

 

Sunday 20th July

 We were the only ones at breakfast again and I couldn’t understand this as it was one of the best we have had. Someone apparently left early in the morning without saying they were off and we hoped they had paid. We left by 9 with low cloud resting over Iona. It was 2 hours driving on scary roads and not being the driver I spotted what I thought was a white tailed eagle- hanging down legs and, obviously, a white tail. Someone said they think the sheep have attitude here and we agree. They won’t budge and cars have to go round them often as not and the birds seem to” play chicken” too. I’ve braked several times for wagtails and Bob marginally avoided hitting some ducks. We felt quite jaded by the time we reached Ulva ferry.
 

After visiting Ulva I started to drive the winding, hilly roads to Dervaig with good intentions but I wimped out when I needed to back down the road for a caravan. My nerves just aren’t up to it!

We arrived at our B and B overlooking an inlet to the sea. From our bedroom window was an absolutely fantastic view of the hills and shore line. As it turned out this was the location of the otter footage on spring watch this year. Binoculars were kindly provided and I was really hopeful in the morning when the land lady said she had just seen the otter.

We ate that night in the Bellachroy Hotel reputed to be the oldest on Mull. From its exterior it didn’t look at all smart but the service and quality of the food was excellent. It was expensive and our roast beef was very rare but we enjoyed it and the company of the couple from Hull on the next table who come for the wildlife. We decided that we are too impatient to see much and we don’t sit long enough so I made a vow that I would make a real effort to see the otter.

 

Monday 21st July

 

We had been rather hot at night and breakfast was early at 8 which suited us. Catherine made us porridge with water though we passed on salt. Today we wanted to cycle to Salen and thought it would take most of the day even though it was only 12 miles there. We visited the shop in Dervaig, where I managed to find some sunscreen. This being the only strong one available and for children, turned us blue. Still it was better than getting even more burnt.

 It was a lovely road with hardly any traffic. It took us 1 and a half hours with some climbing. We first took a look at Salen Pier but it was fenced off and marked private. There was renovation of some kind going on. We stopped for a drink and bought a takeout baguette each at the Coffee Pot cafe, devouring them later on a seat looking across the water at the small Aros castle ruin. The bread was still warm!  Here we watched greylag geese families and 5 herons sitting close together  -unusual.

We retraced our route instead of going on the cycle route through the forest as originally planned. It was too nice a day to be in the trees, and forests are where the insects lurk. The road was even quieter going back. There were huge dust clouds from the timber lorries on the makeshift route for them, cut into the side of the hill to our left. They were up and down while we rode to Salen and we are really glad they were kept off the single track road we were on. Apparently Catherine’s brother who lives in the next house along the shore, cuts the timber here. We passed piles of the telegraph pole sized trunks with rabbits hopping between. It looked as if a gentle push with a finger could bring the whole lot down.

 

We arrived back at 2pm and thought this a good time to look out for otters. Catherine told us a good place to sit over the other side of the inlet. She thought they had moved further down at the bottom of her brother’s property and although he wouldn’t mind us going across his land she thought it difficult for walking. The land was boggy but scattered with stones which meant if we were careful we wouldn’t get wet. A rocky outcrop gave us a good viewing point out across the water. We had been lent 2 good pairs of binoculars. James Stuart from the Spring Watch programme had stayed in the B and B and despite Catherine directing him to where she was seeing the otter he took several weeks to get any film himself. They are very elusive. We became very excited when we saw large shapes moving through the water but disappointed when we realised they were large fish. These were mullet and there were plenty. Bob sat reading as I strained to see but I am sure that early morning or evening would have been a better time. We gave up eventually as the tide was coming in and the boggy land was even boggier and difficult to traverse.

 

We decided to drive to Tobermory for our evening meal. The road was breathtaking and even though Bob was driving I couldn’t look too much at the view down in the valley. We ate at a pub next to the Marine Exhibition that buzzed with customers and then I drove back by way of Salen that even had some 2 way roads being much kinder to the nerves.

 

Tuesday 22nd July

 

We had an early breakfast- 7.30 so I could look out for the otters and then drive at a leisurely pace back to Craignure.  Because I had been wimping a lot over the roads and I thought how good the Dervaig route via Salen seemed to be, I confidently set off driving. We were disappointed that we never saw one glimpse of the otters but still rated it the best place if not the best breakfast. It was quiet until we caught up a huge road cleaning lorry, sweeping grit from the road after some maintenance. Then we stopped and started to avoid overheating as it was such a snail’s pace and there was no way to get past. After several miles he let me go. From Salen apart from road-works it was 2 ways and free running.

 

We reached Craignure in plenty of time for the ferry. The lovely blue skies had now clouded over and the calm sea became slate grey. As the boat neared Oban the sea looked the texture and colour of opal with similar more pastel shades reflected in the more distant mountains. Arriving at Oban near to 12 we parked the car in an unlimited, free space on the road that led to the ruined castle. We then built the bike and cycled back to the ferry port to buy tickets for Lismore. Eating at Weatherspoons we could keep an eye on the bike and enjoy some real ale and steaks for under £8, it being Steak Day. We had 50 minutes before the next ferry...

 

Our B and B was 3 miles outside of Oban out in the sticks up winding hill roads. It was in a beautiful hill situation but no views of the sea. A new build, the architect had made a few design errors. Large window doors opened on to a patio. There was a steep drop in front of the patio making the B and B not really suitable for families. It is very well suited for disabled guests though as the doors are huge and there’s a lovely wet room. We never discovered why breakfast was brought outside the building rather than through a connecting door. It didn’t compromise our food but it was just odd.

 

Overall we thought we were lucky with our Band Bs this break. After leaving and finding the ferry to Kerrera, a tiny island with a 16^th century ruined castle, doesn’t leave until 10.30, we decided to start home rather than wait over an hour. We will have to go to Oban for more ferries in the next few years.

So with 20 islands completed already we are well on target for a hundred over 5 years. It was a good journey back despite the Commonwealth Games opening ceremony starting this evening in Glasgow. The temperature reached 29 degrees. Thank goodness for air-conditioning!