19-Jul-2014 Staffa

We turned up unsure of the time for the Staffa boat, like several other people. The posters were ambiguous. Anyway despite not having booked in advance there was plenty of room on board the little boat that left at 9.30 on Saturday. Storms had been raging over many parts of the UK and the clouds looked a bit ominous today. I did feel anxious about the trip as we were further out from the shore and out in the middle of the 35 minute ride it became quite choppy. Seals watched us from a rock as we passed Ulva. Drawing closer to Staffa we saw the impressive basalt columns that gave way to the dark hole of Fingal’s Cave. The next anxious moment came as we drew up to the rocks and saw rickety steps leading up to the top of the cliff and another walkway just as flimsy looking passing round the side over rocks to the cave. An insubstantial handrail was all that would save one from falling into the sea at some points. We were all put off the boat. One large elderly lady sat for the whole hour waiting for the boat’s return because she daren’t move. Curiosity ruled over fear and we followed in crocodile along the edge of the hexagonal basalt columns. We have been to the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland and legend has it that the giant’s bag of rocks burst and scattered, the largest being Staffa. The similarity between the two places geologically is notable.

 

It was difficult in the cave because people were coming in and going out, trying not to let go of the one handrail as they walked over the uneven rocks. A one way system would have felt safer. I lost Bob who had come over funny and gone out of the cave unbeknown to me and most untypical of him. I wanted to try out the acoustics but decided people might not appreciate my attempts at yodelling. I did manage to get some movie of the inside with its cathedral like columns. Probably to appreciate this at its best you need to be alone. Two girls had dived in the water here though how they managed this I’m not sure as I had left the cave by then. They arrived back at the boat soaking wet. They said the water wasn’t too cold and they could have stayed in for at least 15 minutes without a wet suit.

 

We went up the steps to the top of the cliff where you might see Puffins. On the cliffs were a few pairs of black guillemots distinctive with their white egg shaped wing bars. We saw puffins over the water but not at the nesting site. Someone said they did though. Midges were kept at bay by the Avon skin so soft dry oil we had left from doing Lands End to john o Groats in 2005! I could see a cloud of midges over Bob’s head but they weren’t bothering him.

 

The boat trip back was smoother and we dropped people off for Iona getting back by 12.20 ourselves for a decent portion of soup and some bacon butties at the pub forsaking beer for tea as we wanted to go for a ride later